Just Walking Around

Kulfio…. Kulfiwala

Since the children’s  Diwali vacation were still on, on a whim we decided to head to the beach or Chowpatty as called in Mumbai. We thought instead of heading north and through the messy traffic of Mumbai Suburbs towards Juhu we shuld try going to SoBo and enjoy an evening at the original Chowpatty , the Girgaum Chowpatty. So armed with some old newspapers to sit on a , Bhakti’s sand castle making equipments, Netra’s Frisbee and a small beach ball we took a cab and set out on our little outing. On hindsight the decision was perfect ,we reached in about 40 minutes and landed at the entrance of Girgaum Chowpatty . As we entered the beach ,the Sun was still up but slowly making its journey across the horizon making the skyline a crimson red. We were awestruck with the clean golden sands and thought this is great but our enthusiasm was short lived as we got closer to the water we could see all the garbage strewn . The mess even more highlighted as it was a low tide evening. We put it behind us and picked up a good brightly lit spot and quickly sat in a huddle . Bhakti and Netra poured out the small shovels , bucked and the various moulds on the sand and we started building what else but a sand castle with a moat and a drawbridge et all. It was fun a little family time.

Just then I heard a familiar and loud cry from one of the sellers of most unique ice creams ---Kulfio Kulfi….. In the distant I could see a white dhoti kurta clad man carrying a wicker basket atop his head walking around the length of the beach calling out in between trying to entice the people sitting to try his cool cool kulfi’s.

A family near by asked him to stop so they could choose from his kulfi’s . He set down the basket .Uncovered the red cloth hiding a matka within . When asked fro type of flavours he said he had malai and kesar – badam and chikoo. The family decided to go for the malai. Then with deft hand the Kulfiwala pulled out a couple of conical moulds opened their caps and stuck a stick , pulling out what looked like the yummiest and cool kulfi. After selling them , the kulfiwala was on his way ,walking in short but confident strides and giving out the familiar cry of Kulfio Kulfiiii

Did you know these kulfi wallahs come from a small village of Wadhane 45 km from Pune. During the lean season when the farming activity is low the men from Wadhane head to Mumbai with their ancestral kulfi making skills and roam the streets of Mumbai for making some additional buck to substantiate their farm based income.These men from Wadhane come to Mumbai in groups and stay together .Its difficult to  live together in a small space, take turns to cook food. Then there is the kulfi-making itself. Traditionally sold by vendors or kulfi wallahs who keep the kulfi frozen by placing the moulds inside a large earthen pot or a matka. They make kulfi by evaporating around 10 litres of sweetened and flavoured buffalo milk by slow cooking it in large containers on coal-run stoves. They have to stir it continuously, to keep the milk from sticking to the bottom of the vessel. They have to keep boiling it till its volume is reduced by a half, increasing its fat, protein and lactose density. The semi-condensed mix is then frozen in tight sealed molds or kulhars that are then submerged in ice mixed with salt to speed up the freezing process. The ice/salt mix, along with its submerged kulfi molds, is placed in a matka or an earthen pot that provides insulation from external heat. The kulfi is also sometimes garnished with pistachios, cardamom and sweetened cream. Earlier the standard flavors were pista, cardamom, mango and rose. But now people want kulfis in strawberry, chiku, sitaphal and even chocolate flavour and these kulfiwallas cater to their demands. Every villager has a designated area where he carries the matka covered with the trademark red cloth. The older, more experienced kulfi-makers get to go to posh areas such as Chowpatty, the others raom the streets near gykhana’s like Bombay Gymkhana , The Oval or on the Marine Drive and Worli Seaface. You can even catch them at Shivaji Park selling their cold and milky kulfi’s.

But if you are the those worried sick about hygiene , but still want to eat this yummy cold concoction there are various spots across the length and breadth of Mumbai where you can indulge your sweet tooth. Just across the Girgaum Chowpatty there’s the New Kulfi Centre  famous for thier lip smacking kulfi’s in 25 flavors to boast. From the fresh fruity flavors of Strawberry , Chickoo , Anjir , Mango and even a tangy variety of Orange. What you will be surprised is the hot favourite of the loyal clients is their chocolate chip and orange combination. Little sweet little oragngy and loaded with choco chips . Chip away at the small square pieces fine cut by the counter staff and handed over to you on a plate.

Another place where you get the yummiest kulfi is at the Parsi Dairy Farm  Parsi Dairy Farm has been packing flavours and memories in their food for over a century in Mumbai, and their kulfis are no exception. 

They offer a variety of flavours including kesar, kesar pista, chocolate, strawberry, sitaphal, and more. They add absolutely no preservatives or emulsifiers and so, have some of the creamiest and freshest kulfi out there. A real melt in the mouth treat.

And closer home near King Circle just a few yard away from the famous Shanmukanand Hall is a small place going by the name of Himalaya . They offer the best ever malai kulfi rabdi falooda an almost a tongue-twister, a kulfi topped with generous portions of falooda and rabdi,  Want more? Ask for a malai medium or even a kulfi in badam pista or kesar pista right away.In case rabdi is your poison of choice, you can add it as an extra to the dish, or pack it for later.

Another simple and small but yummy kulfiwala is Gupta Kulfi at Byculla. Come here for roasted almond kulfi . It’s really delicious and a great value for money. The malai chikki kulfi also seems an interesting option for a day if you like to experiment a little, eat it on a plate or with a kulfi stick.

So next time after a hearty dinner you are craving a good dessert. Instead of the usual ice cream go for the traditional kulfi. And I can proudly say, nothing beats the Indian popsicle – a cold creamy kulfi 

Just Walking Around

New Age Watering Holes for the nocturnal wild thing…

Staying and working in Mumbai can be stressful especially for the non-Mumbaikar’s . It the only city that measures distance in time. Ask any one on the road for an address and the first thing that comes out from his mouth if he is a puccka Mumbaikar is …Madam / Sir the place you are asking is at a distance of 20 minutes from here , you can take the Auto if you are lucky to get one , it will reach you in 40 minutes due the traffic else just take the good old BEST , aaram se baitho you will reach in same time but it will cost you just a Tenner. The might Time “Samay” as in the intro of the DD Epic Serial Mahabharat is entwined to the destiny of each Mumbaikar. You just can not escape it be catching the 7:04 am local to Churchgate from Borivili or the 6:53 pm local back home. If you are taking your car to office be sure to  hit the raod by 7-7:30 am to miss the South bound rush hour traffic and commence the reverse journey either at 5pm or if you miss this not before 9 pm . Else be prepared to get stuck in Bumper-to-Bumper traffic moving at snails pace on the Western Express Highway during peak hours both in the morning and evening. I have had colleagues owning the best of wheels dumping them at home and taking an UBER / OLA or even the AC Bus , only taking out their polished cars during weekends to take out the family or go shopping with Wife.

To beat this stress some of the young and young at heart have found ways to let their heads down at least during weekends. To cater to the varying tastes of these patron Mumbai has become the Capital of new age Lounge Bars. Everyone has their own tastes and choices. And so I'm going to qualify this list by saying that these are the 3 best places that most of whom I know keep returning to, each one for different reasons -- the consistently-good grub, the engaging decor, a likeable music track, an exciting (or inexpensive) drinks list, or even just good old nostalgia

Though myself a teetotaler have friends and family acquaintances who enjoy the high spirits. So here goes a review of the 3 best watering holes in Mumbai 2 on experiences of others and 1 on personal experience.

The Bar Stock Exchange is among the city’s most unique theme bars where, as you probably know, the prices of the alcohol vary according to supply and demand. Unlike the real share market however, the rates are always kept within an affordable range. While you don’t need to break the bank to visit, a head for numbers does come in handy .

It’s easy to understand why The Bar Stock Exchange is such a big hit with its patron This really is one of the most pocket-friendly pubs in town. When it opens, prices range from as low as Rs19 for a peg of Old Monk and go up to a high of Rs792 for a pour of 18-year-old Glenfiddich whisky. Even when the spot is packed to capacity at 10pm, the rum can be a thrifty Rs90, cheaper than what it’s tagged at in similar establishments. Regular patrons would be  very pleasantly surprised to find Gateway Brewing Co.’s White Zen beer available on tap for as low as Rs125 at the start of business. And though you don’t really come to a joint like this for the cocktails you will be happy to note that they do a slightly spicy Bloody Mary, for which you shell out a mere Rs251. Perhaps the prospect of such sweet deals makes both patrons and waiters a little more patient. Alos they have introduced their own App which they insist you download using their free WiFi and order your drinks directly from the App. The most tech savy lounge bar in todays times I guess. You can spend your evening by the bar in the al fresco section , while orders come thick and fast, neither customer or bartender lose their cool even when a few folks take their time to make some mental calculations. The chain hired chef Kshama Prabhu, who has done stints at The Tasting Room cafe and The White Owl microbrewery, to oversee their menu. Her additions include the 2am Cheese Pav , a poshed-up version on the streetside masala pav, which achieved a good balance between the cheese and spice. You can also try the poutine mushroom melt, a well-portioned and flavoured baking tray full of French fries, cheese and brown mushroom sauce.

Like the food and the simply but tastefully decorated black and glass decor, the music is agreeable if not particularly unique. They play mostly remixes just to be sure, but both the tempo and the volume of the nineties alternative rock and current pop hits playlist is at a level that enable conversation. But then who goes there for serious talk . Enjoy the night while it lasts.

Next on the list any true party animal will be the Glocal Junction .It is a new-age all day dining and bar concept hangout that unifies the global and local elements together. It caters to the needs of today's global local, those who are global in their appearances but local at heart. Glocal Junction is the unification of global experiences with surprise elements of local cultures, a twisted new whole which is greater than the sum of its parts.

To enhance its offerings, the restaurant starts as a soothing space as the day begins and converts into a high-energy casual night spot by sundown that potentially binds together the concepts of an all-day dining and a casual lounge seamlessly.

The food menu at Glocal Junction is an amalgamation of global cuisines with a twist of regional flavors.They have combined various ingredients and techniques to evolve different cuisines, thereby offering some of the iconic dishes in a renewed avatar - the Glocal avatar! Don't mistake it for fusion, because it is not!

The bar at Glocal Junction has a well nurtured menu keeping in mind the fact that people in today's time are well travelled, have good product knowledge, great sense of taste. But they are still local by heart and enjoy the desi/local fun elements, even when it comes to drinking.

The layout of Glocal Junction is planned into a massive 5,000sq feet space on the ground and the first floor. The interiors have been designed with global techniques, local materials, and humble ones that too, but now distilled to a point where their inherent beauty is undeniable.

Glocal Junction, with its unimpeachable cuisine, elaborate bar menu, well-manicured interiors and exquisite ambiance is set to provide this city with a captivating drinking and dining space that allows its guests to enjoy the virtue of being local at heart.

And last but not the least is the new kid on the block “ Kaama” in most happening of places at Kamala Mills compound . The owner Swapneel Redkar an old schoolmate and friend. Just 8 months old and taking its baby steps in the night life scene. Its huge with its 2500 sq ft..The Ambience is real cozy , with comfortable seating area and well lit not unlike some of the dimly lit places which seem more dingy than approachable. The space is clearly demarcated into 3 section separated by the prominent bar with trained bar tenders churning out drinks and cocktails with aplomb. 

Our group of 12-16 consisting of my Wifey’s cousins and other close famiy friends decided to bring in the New Year on Dec 31^st here this year. We were very well taken care off by the Manager Ajay Gupat and his team of well mannered servers. Dishing our succulent and mouth watering starters like spiced potatoes (crispy potatoes marinated in India spices, Harissa and Garlic Aioli ) , Char grilled Portebello Mushroom (flavoured with saffron & balck pepper served on scented Truffle Mushroom Kulcha) , Zesty Cottage Cheese ( soft Paneer made into Angari Tikka and served on Mozerella Cheese Kulcha with pickled shallots) both mouth watering and with a taste that lingered on through the night. On the non veg side the Chicken Poutine with its Makhni gravy added Indian punch to the evening. Even the Chcen Seekh were well marinated with right amount of spices and done well so to melt in your mouth when bit. The other notables were crisply done Fish fingers and Tandori marinated spicy Green chutney based grilled Chicken giving it a smoky flavour.

The bar menu is well stocked with the usual brand that all drinkers would love Black Label , Chivas Ciroc and others like Absolut Jose Cuervo and Ballentine’s. A special suggestion would be to try out their cocktails for their selection of cocktails, especially the ones that are tea-infused. These cocktails are made from freshly brewed tea like cardamom, basil leaves, Assam leaves and there’s even an orange tea infused with hints of cinnamon.  Tea lover? Mix it up with booze and enjoy. As their menu highlights the fact “ Just like a secret fantasy that finds its way to the door of the shy. Kaama Tea Infusions marry desires with potency and taste with nostalgia. A serving for your every day royalty”. A concoction which transports you into a different world all together and pumps up your mood and gives you a kick to beat the blues. Keeping in tune with the name of the establishment “ Kaama” they have exotic drinks which go by the name of Deep Desire , Midnight Fantasies , Mysterious Muse and Lustrous Cascade.

The NYE 2018 event for which we had gone was kept rocking by DJ MADOC spinning musical hits and  remixes both Bollywood and Classic Pop . A night to remember and a great way to bring in the New Year.

To sum it up Kaama leaves us asking for more. Food and desire go hand in hand when the flavours, fragrance and aura blend in well. Spacious, elegant and beautiful spread makes up for the ambience. Add music/dj and the dance floor with gigs and you lit up the vibe of the place.

A great place to spend an evening with family and friend and the best way to let your hair down after and tiring and stressful week and just before the start of another grueling week ahead. Head to this place for food , drinks , music and little loose the wild animal in you.

Its Saturday Night again today ,so put on you dancing shoes and head to any of your favourite watering holes with friends and have the time of your life ….Kyun Ki .....Abhi to Party Shuru Hu Hai..

Darwaje Ko Kundi Maaro
Koyi Na Bach Jaane Paaye
Dj Ko Samjha Do Music
Galti Se Bhi Ruk Na Jaaye

Daga Daga Sa Jo Feel Kare
Wo Jaake Do Red Bull Gatak Le
Aur Jisko Dance Nahi Karna
Wo Jaake Apni Bhains Charaaye

Bas Aaj Ko Raat Hai
Kal Se Wahi Siyape Hain
Jee Bhar Ke Naach Lo
Na Ghar Wale Na Maa Pe Hain
Sab Pe Apna Raaz Hai

Darne Ki Kya Baat Hai
Yeh Toh Bas Suruaat Hai
Yeh Toh Bas Suruaat Hai

Are Abhi Toh Party Shuru Hui Hai..
Are Abhi Toh Party Shuru Hui Hai…
Yeh Toh Bas Suruaat Hai

https://youtu.be/8LZgzAZ2lpQ

Just Walking Around

SWAG Se Kar Lo Naye Saal Ka Swagat…..

We are in the last week of the year 2017 and yet again curtains will be drawn on this year. Looking back its been a tumultuous year with severe ups and downs. The Year started off with a surprise electoral win for Donald Trump ..the Maverick , Billionaire Businessman and presidential candidate of the Grand old Party (GOP) of USA The Republican’s . A surprise win even for the old hands and political analysts in the USA. An election which was dominated with caustic Tweets of “Fake News” and mail leaks for the Hillary Camp which proved to be her nemesis and blew her chances of being the First Women President of the worlds largest democracy. That too for the second time since she had to withdraw from the race due to Barrack Obama’s charisma 4 years back. But 1 year down the line the mood is somber in USA what with economy not doing to well and doubts in the minds of Heads of Businesses who supported him during the run up to the election. The US President appears to be all sound and fury much like our own benevolent leader of India “All sound and No Action”. Anyways lets hope thing will change for the better in the New Year 2018. On the other side of the world saw the rise of autocratic dictator Kim Jong Un in North Korea who nearly took the world on the brink of a Nuclear escalation with his latest Inter Continental Ballistic Missile (ICBM ) with nuclear war head and a boast that he can now hit USA anytime. But on a brighter side the world political map is changing with most of the Heads of States in the average age range of 45 , with Leo Varadkar 38 (Person of Indian Origin – PIO) becoming Prime Minister of Ireland , Emmanuel Macaron 39  President of France , Justin Treudue 41 President of Canada , Sheikh Tamim bin Hamad Al Thani, 36 the Emir of Qatar , Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck, 37 the fifth king of Bhutan , Jacinda Arden 37 President of New Zealand and the youngest being Sebastian Kurz 31 the newly elected President of Austria.  Hope these young leaders take the world economy to new frontiers in the New Year giving rise to an era of peace and prosperity.

It was also a year of catastrophic events some man made some due to Climate change. A series of major storms, including Harvey, Maria, and Irma,  caused unprecedented amounts of damage. Two major hurricanes—Harvey and Irma—blasted the U.S. coast with winds exceeding 130 miles per hour (mph), and savage Hurricane Maria rocked Puerto Rico with winds exceeding 155 mph. Totals are still being calculated, but early tabulations indicate that the U.S. suffered more than $200 billion worth of damage from 17 named storms during the season, which began June 1 and ends Thursday, November 30

Closer home floods fueled by climate change and unplanned urbanization have wreaked havoc in India, but authorities are failing to take notice. This year has seen the highest recorded rainfall in quite some time. Rainfall records have broken in different regions of the country, and all over the world. The year has seen a spate of extreme climate events, and their toll on life and property has been devastating. India, particularly, has witnessed floods in nine states. Monsoons this year have been heavy, and the damage caused by flooding unprecedented.

India has seen massive flooding in Bihar, West Bengal, Gujarat, Assam, Arunachal Pradesh, Nagaland, Manipur, Odisha, and Jharkhand. The city of Mumbai is still under the grip of  torrential rain till the end of November, and the city floods here has claimed 14 lives. 

The man made tragedies alos made headlines , one being the massacre at Las Vegas due to a  shootout by a Lunatics spraying bullets from the hotel premises on the common people and visitors at a music show nearby. And in Mumbai there was the stampede at Elphinston Railway Station bridge , a chaos and confusion created by rain , mis-understanding and over crowding . a tragedy in which 23 lives were lost.

On the brighter side some news came in with a little surprise and brought a smile on ones lips , take the case of Kulbhushan Jadhav the alleged RAW agent and branded a spy imprisoned in Pakistan being allowed by the Pakistan government for a family meeting with his wife and mother in the jail. A long overdue gesture after India’s leading Legal representative firmly arguing his case in the International Court of Justice (ICJ) against the forcing the Pakistan Government to put off his death sentence. And the silver lining being Justice Dalbeer Singh being elected in a closely fought election in  UNGA and becoming the Chief Judge of ICJ.

On the sports front Indian Athletes shone on the International scene . India showed its best performance ever in the Asian Athletic Championships clinching a total of 29 medals including 12 Golds. India finished on top of the medals tally ahead of China and Khazakstan. The championship was dominated G Lakshmanan winning mens 5000mts and 10000mts run and protégé’s of PT Usha namely P U Chitra winning Gold in women’s 1500mts and Dutee Chand winning bronze in 100 mts. A big come back by India’s best known Womens pugilist MC Mary Kom winning a Gold at the Asian Womens Boxing. A feat unmatched by any , Having been away from the boxing ring for a long period, the 34-year-old mother of three has returned to her favored 48kg category after five years. The gutsy lady from Manipur won her 5th Asian Championships gold.

And finally 2 events that made the headlines and which were a surprise , 1 was the much talked about and trended wedding of the year of Virat and Anushka being branded as #VIRUSHKA in a fairy tale type ceremony in Tuscany , Italy. The other being icing on the cake of Manushi Chhilllar winning the Miss World crown after 17 years last being won by the Bollywood icon Priyanka Chopra.

Manushi Chhillar a medical student, was crowned Miss World at a glitzy event in a Chinese resort on Saturday, making India country the joint-most successful in the beauty pageant’s history. Chhillar is the 6^th  Indian winner of the long-running contest, following in the footsteps of Bollywood actresses Priyanka Chopra and Aishwarya Rai. Aishwarya had bagged the title in 1994, followed by Diana Haydon in 1997, Yukta Mookhey in 1999 and Priyanka in 2000, the last for India. Chillar’s win brings India level with Venezuela as the countries with most victories in the history of the pageant, now in its 67th edition.

So going into the new year 2018 lets hope and pray the coming year is as eventful and surprises but more positive than negative. As they say Hope and Love is what makes the World go Round. So here’s wishing more hope and more love be filled in all our hearts and let the New Year bring Happiness and Joy to all the families of my readers….

A spin on the latest Salman Khan Bollywood trending song from Tiger Zinda Hai - “ SWAG se Karenge Sabka Swagat”  , I would say SWAG se Karenge New Year ka Swagat……

 

Just Walking Around

Mahim Cha Urs…

I have been staying in Matunga for now almost 40 years . Growing up soaking its traditions , cultures and all its vibrant atmosphere. Knowing most of its nuances like the back of by hand and some I am still discovering. Like wise the missus has grown up in the neighbouring and equally famous locality of Mahim . With its cross cultural ethos and  cauldron  of people’s mixture right from traditional Maharashtrians  , to Goan Christians to Saraswat Brahmins to native Kolis and Muslims . Each with their own unique life style contributing to the vibrant and effervescent environment.

One highlight that truly defines Mahim and sets it apart from the rest of Mumbai is the local patron saint Makdoom Ali Mahimi and his Dargah . A place of faith and reverence among all religions . A pillar of strength to the downtrodden , the poor and the real Aam Aadmi . The ones who believe in truth and hard work and go about their routine with a sense of responsibility and duty towards their families. Believing in the spiritual saying "Karmanye Vadhikaraste, Ma phaleshou kada chana, Ma Karma Phala Hetur Bhurmatey Sangostva Akarmani" ….., where Arjuna was not willing to fight the Epic war of Mahabhaarat and Krishna explains to him to perform his duties. , You have a right to perform your prescribed duty, but you are not entitled to the fruits of action. Never consider yourself to be the cause of the results of your activities, and never be attached to not doing your duty

Going back into History of Makdoom Ali Mahimi , was Sufi Saint, who is said to have lived between 1372 to 1431 AD, had followers from all faiths. He is one of the first saints to have written a commentary on Quran. Mahimi was the first Indian scholar to write an exegesis on the  Quran, which gained critical acclimation from numerous Islamic scholars including Shah Waliullah Dehlavi. Authoring more than 100 books but we only know name of 21 books from which only 10 books are available in different libraries in India, he was given the moniker Qutub-e -Kokan (Kokan's Pole Star). He was the first commentator of the Holy Quran in India . His commentary is known throughout the World and is called "Tafsirur Rahman." It is Unique among all the commentary of QURAN known to Scholars. Mahimi is revered by both the Muslims and Hindus, all Muslim sects hold him in high esteem. After his death in 1431, he was buried in Mahim. The site later became a Dargah (shrine) for devotees.

Every year there is the annual ten-day Urs festival celebrated on the 13th day of Shawwal as per the Muslim calendar, millions of devotees visit his dargah. Changing times haven’t affected the enthusiasm with which the ten day-long Mahim fair is being held every year. Held in the honour of the Sufi saint, Makhdoom Ali Mahimi (1372-1431) the Mahim fair at the dusty Mahim beach is full of people on giant wheels, toy trains and enjoying gravity-defying stunts in the ‘Maut Ka Kuan’.

The qawwali tradition is being celebrated by the locals, too. “Hindi songs are not sung because they can get boisterous. Each singer comes and gives their nazariayana (respect) to the God and Baba. They all speak about how different religion say the same thing.Listening to them is like paying your respects to Baba. You remember him and his teachings..

The cops go easy even if the qawwalis go on till late into the night. The Mahim Fair is the only time when the police participate in an official capacity apart from providing security cover. It is a policeman who has the honour of applying sandalwood paste on the saint’s grave, and offering it a chadar. There are three different versions of the story behind the involvement of the police. It is said a sepoy served water to the saint while he was dying. That is why the police have been putting the first sandal and the chadar on him.

According to another version, Baba was very close to the investigative arm of the police. He helped them crack a case and, out of respect, an assistant sub inspector offers the first sandalwood and chadar. Some others say in 1891-92, the city of Mumbai witnessed a brutal riot. So, the then police commissioner began offering the first sandal as a call for communal harmony.

It takes seven hours for the sandal to reach the police station from the Dargah in the midst of the police band and other bands. People also arrange for community eating. Mouth watering rice mutton curry free to whoever comes, to the Dargah nearly 600 people are fed daily.

During the Urs the street leading to the Dargah is full of festivity. There are street vendors selling toys for the kids accompanying their parent to this holy place of worship.

This year we too ventured out to soak in the festivity. While walking from the lane starting near Mahim’s famous Falooda maker Baba Falooda , you are awestruck with the beehive of activities and the sparkling lights which light  this lane. We picked up some toys for little Bhakti and then walked along the lane checking out the wares sold by the street sellers. You have the bagand purse wallah selling ladies clutches , hobos and shoulder bags in different sizes and colors tempting with their economical prices. Some stalls sell the anodized earrings and brightly coloured braclets . But the stalls that catch your eye are the numerous food stalls lined up on both sides of this lane. The cooks bent over the hot stove churning out delicacies of Tandoori Chicken , Murg Pahadi Kebabs , Sheekh Kebabs ,Mutton Korma to be devoured with the soft and fluffy Roomali rotis. Then there is the mouth watering and spicy Dum Biryani’s cooked to perfection in huge Handi’s and served with the deft scoop of the hand with the right mix of masala , rice and the succulent meat. The food from the stalls giving you a completely different gastronomical experience.

If you are the one with the sweet tooth head to the numerous sweetmeat stalls . Here you will see huge and deep kadhai’s boiling over with oil in which the biggest ever puri is deep fried to the perfect golden brown, and what is it served with the special Ghee laden orange colored Sheera sprinkled with badam , pista Cashew and rasins giving it an exceptional taste. The famous stalls for sweets are from Sulieman Usman selling sweet Jalebi’s , various halwa’s and their famous Aflatoon and calorie heavy brown colored halwa. Then there is the Son Halwa from Joshi Budda Kaka Mithawala with a legacy of nearly 100 years.

After having savoured the festivities we walked up to the brightly lit Dargah . As we entered the inner sanctum sanctorum of the Shah Baba Makdoom’s tomb we were engulfed in the serenity and peace . Crowds moved in orderly and disciplined manner offering a silent prayer to the Sufi Saint and asking for his blessings. Once we took the darshan and came out , we were struck by the ethereal beauty of the lighting and flower decked arched gate of the Dargah. Looking up I could see the moon in the dark sky shining so bright and spreading its light of assurance much like the light shining from the Shah Baba Makdoom’s Dargah standing tall and firm  amongst all the chaos in this city of dreams.

We bid farewell to one of the patron saint of this city with a qawwali which is so apt running through my mind…..

Tere darbaar mein dil thaam ke who aata hai …Jisko tu chaahe , hey Nabi tu bulata hai

Tere dar pe sar jhukaane main bhi aaya hoon .. Jiski bigdi haaye Nabi chaahe tu banata hai

Bhar do jholi meri ya Muhammad .. Laut kar main na jaunga khali

Band deedon mein bhar dale aansu.. Sil diye maine dard ko dil mein

Jab talak tu bana de na tu bigdi .. Dar se tere na jaaye sawaali.

Bhar do jholi meri ya Muhammad .. Laut kar main na jaunga khali… Khali

Just Walking Around

Mehndi ……. Indian Tatoo Culture..

Where ever I see the GenX of today believe in stamping their bodies with the green ink Tatoos in designs and sizes of varying sizes and on various body parts . Be it a gentle butterfly or a chain like design on the ankles to the massive Macho eagle or a Shiva tattoo on the biceps or delicate designs on the back of the neck. Some etching the names of their beloveds on their forearms in simple to Gothic fonts. Its supposed to be their expression of their inner voice. An act of rebellion against traditions , I guess.

But long before the West adopted this body etching art , we Indians have been known to use the art of tattooing in our daily lives . In tribal culture a women getting married or newly married would go to the village tattoo artist and who would prick the skin on their forehead with small pin sized dots or write the name of her husband across her forearm. The process was called Godhana literally meaning etching.

But since this left a lifetime of green mark on the skin it was difficult to think it as a decorative or beatifying process. That was left to the all time favourite custom of the women “The Mehndi”. Even the western culture today acknowledges Mehndi as the best ever non-permanent tattooing process.

The art of henna (called mehndi in Hindi & Urdu) has been practiced for over  5000 years in Pakistan, India, Africa and the Middle East. There is some documentation that it is over 9000 years old.  Because henna has natural cooling properties, people of the desert, for centuries, have been using henna to cool down their bodies.  They make a paste of henna and soak their palms and soles of the feet in it to get an air conditioning affect.  They feel its cooling sensation throughout the body for as long as the henna stain remains on their skin.  Initially, as the stain faded away, it left patterns on the skin surface which led to ideas to make designs for decorative purposes.  

 

In the ancient Egyptian times mummies wore henna designs and it is documented that Cleopatra herself used henna for decorative purposes.

Henna was not only a popular adornment for the rich but the poor, who could not afford jewelry, used it to decorate their bodies as well.

Today people all over the world have adopted the ancient traditions of adorning their bodies with the beautiful natural artwork created from the henna plant.  It became a very popular form of temporary body decoration  in the 90's in the US and has become a growing trend ever since.  Celebrities like Madonna, Gwen Stefani, Yasmine Bleeth, Liv Tyler, Xena, and many others proudly adorn their bodies with henna and show them off in public, movies, videos, etc. People throughout the west have adopted the eastern tradition in their lives by having their hands and feet painted for weddings, bellies painted while in pregnancy, heads adorned with henna while going through chemotherapy, scars camouflaged to make them unnoticeable, etc.

Henna (Lawsonia inermis, also known as hina, henna tree, mignonette tree, Egyptian privet) is a flowering plant that grows 12-15 feet high and comes from the sole species of the Lawsonia genus. The English name "henna" comes from the Arabic (ḥinnā).  The name henna also refers to the dye prepared from the henna plant and the art of temporary tattooing based on those dyes. Henna has been used for centuries to dye skin, hair, and fingernails, as well as fabrics including silk, wool, and leather.

Henna henna was used for cosmetic purposes in the Roman Empire, Convivencia-period Iberia and Ancient Egypt, as well as other parts of North Africa, the Horn of Africa, the Arabian Peninsula, the Near East and South Asia.  It can be found in other hot climates like Pakistan, India and Australia.  The plant grows best in dry heat climatic regions and contains more dye at these temperatures.  It also grows better in dry soil than damp soil.  The leaves are small and in pairs .The flowers are fragrant, with four white petals. The fruit is a dry capsule, containing numerous seeds.

The henna plant contains lawsone which is a reddish-orange dye that binds to the keratin (a protein) in our skin and safely stains the skin.  The stain can be from pale orange to nearly black depending on the quality of the henna and how well ones skin takes it.  A good henna, fresh from hot & dry climates, will stain the darkest.

For body decorations, the leaves of the henna plant are dried, crushed into a fine powder, and made into a creamy paste using a variety of techniques.  This paste is then applied to the skin, staining the top layer of skin only.  In its natural state it will dye the skin an orange or brown color.  Although it looks dark green (or dark brown depending on the henna) when applied, this green paste will flake off revealing an orange stain.  The stain becomes a reddish-brown color after 1-3 days of application.  The palms and the soles of the feet stain the darkest because the skin is the thickest in these areas & contain the most keratin.  The farther away from hands and feet the henna is applied, the lesser the color.  The face area usually stains the lightest.   The designs generally last from 1-4 weeks on the skin surface depending on the henna, care and skin type.

Henna works on all skin types and colors.  It looks just as beautiful on dark skin as light skin but because some people skin may take the dye better than others, it can look more prominent on one and not as much on another (even lighter skin).  But nevertheless, henna is a symbol of beauty, art, and happiness and is meant for EVERYONE!

Because henna acts as a sunblock, there is an added benefit to having henna designs in the summer.  For those who love to get a tan It leaves tan lines!  In order to benefit from this, it is best to get a henna design, let its natural color stay on for 3-5 days and then go and get a tan.  This way you can enjoy the natural henna color on your body, the henna color with the tan, and then tan lines in the shapes of the design (once the henna fades away)!  The tan lines last as long as the actual tan!

With the Wedding Season just beginning the Mehndi ritual attains top priority . Indian marriages are known for their many rituals. In fact, the beauty of Indian weddings comes forth in the numerous traditions that are associated with the special celebration. Indian weddings are incomplete without dance, music and lots of laughter. Furthermore, Indian weddings are not a one day ceremony. Pre-wedding ceremonies begin before the wedding and can sometimes be a week long celebration.

Among the many traditions that are infused into Indian weddings, one of the most prominent is the mehndi ceremony. This is the day when mehndi is applied on the hands and feet of the bride and even the groom. While the bride has a very elaborate pattern done on her hands and feet, the groom usually has just a token design. Mehndi is a very important part of both Hindu and Muslim weddings in India. In fact, application of mehndi is a custom during any celebration in India, be it Karva Chaut, Teej, Diwali, Ramzan or any other festival.

It is a common belief that the darker the color the mehndi leaves on the hands on a bride, the more will she be loved by her husband and mother-in-law. However, the significance of applying mehndi during weddings is not restricted just to sentiments and beliefs. Although these beliefs make the application of mehndi a much anticipated and charming tradition, the actual reason is of much deeper significance, which is sometimes forgotten in the present day.

Besides lending color to the hands, mehndi is a very powerful medicinal herb. Weddings are stressful, and often, the stress causes headaches and fevers. As the wedding day approaches, the excitement mixed with nervous anticipation can take its toll on the bride and groom. Application of mehndi can prevent too much stress because it cools the body and keeps the nerves from becoming tense. This is the reason why mehndi is applied on the hands and feet, which house nerve endings in the body. Also, being a highly antiseptic agent, mehndi can protect the couple from viral diseases. Such diseases are totally undesirable just before the wedding and this medicinal herb can lend a strong shield. Any small cuts, burns or scratches that the couple might sustain during the course of so many rituals and customs can be healed easily with the application of mehndi. It improves blood circulation in the body and enhances general health. The initial practice of applying mehndi in ancient times began in order to protect the couple and keep them healthy.

Mehndi that is applied during Indian weddings is not just a plain paste of mehndi powder and water. Eucalyptus oil, a bit of clove oil and a few drops of lemon are added. These oils not only help in darkening the color of mehndi on the body, but also enhance the benefits of mehndi and make the paste highly medicinal. The best part is that the smell, the beautiful rich color and the health benefits that mehndi lends act as a powerful aphrodisiac. Also, since the color and smell remain for days, it boosts the romance in the initial days of wedding.

Over the centuries, mehndi has become so ingrained in Indian tradition that today the mehndi ceremony is one of the major celebrations before the wedding. A family member or mehndi expert applies mehndi on the palms and feet of the bride. Elaborate designs are applied on the hands with a cone filled with mehndi. While the mehndi is being applied, other members of the family play the traditional dhol and dance to its beats. Every female member of family gets mehndi done on her hands and feet. The entire mood of a mehndi ceremony is extremely festive.

The mehndi ceremony takes place at the bride’s place and usually, it is held a couple of days prior to the wedding. It is a night ceremony which is accompanied with relatives, music, laughter, food and a lot of fun.

The mehndi ceremony for the groom takes place separately at his home. The bride and groom do not usually get decked up very elaborately at the time of the mehndi application, and their ensembles are very simple. Once the mehndi for the bride is done, the female relatives of the bride, especially her sisters, visit the groom’s ceremony. It is great fun as the would-be sister-in-laws play pranks on their future brother-in-law and try to get some money from him as a tradition! It is a very happy occasion for both the families. Traditional songs and music characterize the ceremony from the beginning to the end.

Although times have changed and a lot of new inclusions have been made in Indian weddings, the significance of the mehndi ceremony has grown in stature. Many families bring in DJs to play songs and celebrations that go on until late in the night. If something has changed about the ceremony, it is the designs and patterns. While only intricate Indian designs were traditionally applied in the past, brides today are experimenting with Arabic designs and Indo-Arabic designs and mixing shimmer pastes along with the traditional mehndi paste. Semi precious stones are also embedded in the design. It is traditional to write the name of the groom on the bride’s palm. In some regions, this is also a small ritual after the wedding. The groom is made to search for his name, which is usually smartly written so as not be readily visible.

The mehndi ceremony is a reflection of the rich Indian culture, bringing together the knowledge of medicinal herbs with many lovely sentiments and beliefs. The result is a ceremony filled with fun and joy and the perfect precursor to the auspicious wedding day.

So this wedding season enjoy India’s greatest gift to cosmetics and indulge in some mesmerizing designs and feel free to express yourselves through this ancient and beautiful natural art of body decoration.