Just Walking Around

Soul Spa – A Musical Rejuvenation

Living in a city like Mumbai has its perks good connectivity , secure environment and a vibrant  cultural scene. The city has been host to many musical events promoted by specialized NGO’s and backed by top of the line corporate houses. One such organization is the Banyan Tree .

Banyan Tree is the brainchild of Mahesh Babu and his wife Nandini Mahesh , both of whom are acclaimed musicians themselves. Banyan Tree was founded out the passion to preserve, nurture ,promote and propagate rich heritage of performing arts of India. Banyan Tree was born out of the passion to preserve, nurture, promote and propagate the rich heritage of the performing arts of India. Beyond treating the performing arts as mere entertainment, each event is also an opportunity to create an awareness of the rich heritage, of the ancient wisdom that has continued to survive despite all odds. This awareness led to the creation of several national festivals of performing arts. The genres covered in these are the enchanting spectrum of Indian culture come alive i.e. Indian classical vocals and Instrumental (both the north and south Indian streams), Indian classical dance forms, authentic folk music from across the country, folk dance forms, theater, dance-drama, multi-media productions, dance ballets, Sufi music, ghazals, devotional music, innovative thematic presentations, world music ensembles, as well as on rare occasions Bollywood music. We conceive, design and present events in all these genres. Innovative themes, backed by well researched content and crisp world class presentations make for memorable events cherished by audiences much after they are over. 

Naturally, they are not just able to bring the best out of the artists but even inspire them with innovative ideas which help the artist out do themselves. With an industry experience of two decades, the duo has excellent rapport with over 2000 performing artists across genres, linguistic groups and cultural backgrounds, who regularly perform for various events of Banyan Tree across the country and beyond

One such event is the Teen Prahar – A unique musical experience. Teen Prahar, literally means three quadrants. As per the Hindustani classical music tradition the 24 hours of the day are divided into 8 quadrants of 3 hours each and there are specific ragas for each of the periods. There are certain melodies that appeal to us more in the early hours of the morning, while others cater to the mystique of the twilight hours. Hence the time cycle of ragas. In the present day scenario where most of the concerts take place in the night, Teen Prahar is an endeavor to cover at least 3 quadrants so that the music lovers get to enjoy ragas which are not common on the night concert platforms.

Originally started as a day-long festival a decade ago, Teen Prahar is now a 5 hour festival that is presented in 2 cities Mumbai and Delhi. Essentially, it is a platform to encourage the best of young, lesser known talents as well as rare, near extinct instruments, forms and styles. It also features maestros in the making and one maestro for the finale of the evening.

We were fortunate enough that this special program was to held in Nehru Centre at Worli, I didn’t want to miss this opportunity and experience to hear our Classical Maestros live on stage. It was an evening program at the ground floor auditorium at Nehru Centre from 5pm to 10pm. I had booked the tickets for me and Kashmira well in advance , as such programs tend to get house full.As we walked into the auditorium we were zapped , the hall with seating of 500 was packed to capacity. Mjsic lovers from all walks of life be it Senior managers of Corporate houses , young college going girls and boys , married couple like us and few senior citizens and even senior citizen couples had arrived from far coners of the city of Mumbai and neighbouring sub-urban areas of Thane , Kalyan , Dombivili and Dahisar.

The evening was opened by the performance of Pt.Harsh Narayan on his Sarangi. Grandson of legendary Pt.Ram Narayan who brought this string instrument to the forefront as a solo instrument and performed solo across India and abroad. Untill then Sarangi was used as an accompaniment to Vocal classical or Ghazal performances. It was his dedication and hard work that got Sarangi its due respect and recognition. Pt Harsh Narayan now takes this legacy forward and performed perfectly , gave a scintillating and melodious performance.The audience were awestruck at the deft handling of this string instrument by the young maestro in the making. A big round of applause went up in the air at the end of the performance.

The next performance was of Vocal singing by Pt.Rahul Deshpande again a well know name in the musical world , grandson of legend Pt.Vasant Rao Deshpande the famous Khayal singer and one who had made the Marathi Musical “Katiyaar Kaljat Ghusli” famous 2 decades ago by essaying the role of Khan Sahab live on stage. Now Pt. Rahul Deshpande has carried forward the legacy and was the voice behind Actor Sachin Pilgaonkar’s Khan Sahab in the Marathi Movie “Katiyaar Kaljat Ghusli” released a year back.

Since it was an evening program Rahul Deshpande chose the Raag – Shri to start the performance . For Drut – fast tempo he sang in Raag – Kedar Gandharva. The bandishes were sung with great melody and modulation (murkiyan) and with such ease that we in the audience were enthralled and engulfed in the magical world. Hearing him sing with our eyes closed ,we were literally transported to a different world altogether. Whenever he took special Alaap’s or Murkiyan unknowingly a  loud Wah Wah went up in the air from the audience. He also responded to the appreciation with a nod of his head and continued to mesmerize the crowd. To culminate his performance he sang a melodious Nirguni Bhajan. The words were in Hindi and it was an ode to Hari or Krishna . Such melodious bhajan . Hearing this it was as if everyone in the audience was getting connected to the Higher Power of Lord Krishna himself. Every one stood up to give a big round of applause to the young singer .

The organizers then had a small thanks giving ceremony where the singer and his sathi’s were felicitated with a bouquet of flowers. Once this small break was over the program continued with the next performance. Now it was the turn of Pt. Rahul Sharma son of Maestro Pt. Shivkumar Sharma and a specialist on Santoor. He started with brief introduction of what he was going to play and also thanked Banyan Tree for promoting Indian Classical music among the general masses. He started his performance on Raag Jhinjhoti an evening Raga which is famous for its melody and serenity. When the specially-shaped mallets (mezrab) hit the strings , it creates such a great sound , a sound which tugs at your heart and creates a sufiana atmosphere. Close your eyes and you can feel the as if you are in Kashmir enjoying the music on the banks of the calm and serene Dal lake . Lightly floating on the house boats and getting connected to the nature around. Later the maestro interacted with the audience asking whether everyone was enjoying the music.When asked would you like to hear some more –the audience shouted Once more…. To this he asked one of the folk singers from Rajasthan sitting in the 1^st row to come up on the stage and perform with him. The folk singer was Kachara Khan and senior vocalist in his 60’s wear traditional Rajashthani Dhoti –Kurta and that colorful turban. The performance was awe inspiring with Rajasthani folk , deft play on the Santoor and accompanied by the rhythm on the Tabla. The voice of singer literally gave goose bumps to me. Such clarity and ruggedness and a mesmerizing music when combined with the soft but melodious Santoor sounds. They got a well deserved standing ovation.

Then there was a brief percussion session called Rhythm Delight with a Jugalbandi between Indian drums and Western Drums . The Indian instruments were the  Pakhwaj (famous drupad dhol , with one side wide as a Dagga and the other side narrow as the table ) played by the well acclaimed Pt.Bhawani Shankar ,Khadtal (simple Rajashthani instrument made of two strips of wood) palyed by Devu Khan , with another folk player on the Dholak . The western drums were played by a new Brazilian lady drummer KarinaCollis. The rhythm’s played were fast paced and heart throbbing. A totally energetic performance.

To conclude the night the stage was set for a final performance by Shujaat Husain Khan ,one of the greatest North Indian classical musicians of his generation. He belongs to the Imdad Khan gharana of the sitar and his style of playing sitar is well known as the gayaki ang, is imitative of the subtleties of the human voice.Shujaat Khan's musical pedigree extends seven generations. He is the son and disciple of the great sitarist Ustad Vilayat Khan, guru to the great sitarist and legend Pt.Ravi Shankar. 

He started by acknowledging the patience of the Mumbai audience for sitting the last 5 hours and staying back late into the night and the crowd appreciated with a thunderous applause. The maestro played the raag Rageshri starting with slow tempo and gradually reaching crescendo as if  the maestros fingers were imbibed with lightning. Such energy , such melody , such magical performance. The maestro ended his performance with a tumhri played on his sitar. But the people were still hungry for music and when after the standing ovation someone in the audience demanded a once more and a special Ghazal.. The maestro respected the wish and enthralled us all by an even awesome performances. He sang a famous nazam Piya Ghar Aaye….to a soothing and rich baritone of a voice.

When finally the event ended it was 11 pm but as we  walked past the gates of the auditorium our ears were still ringing with the lilting melody and our hearts were beating to the rhythm of the tabla.The evening made us forget all the stress and worries of our daily routine. Giving our body , mind and soul a well-deserved refreshment and rejuvenation.

To think of it I suggest all of us should visit such a musical event once in a while for an R&R usually associated with a Spa….A Spa for the Soul ….. What say you ……

Just Walking Around

Mini Punjab in the heart of Mumbai

On a lazy Saturday late afternoon we were having tea in the evening with the regular Marie biscuits and rusks. The topic turned to what we will have for Sunday breakfast – bread and eggs or fluffy idlis’ or dosas with piping hot sambhar and a though struck why not have Dal Pakwan. That mouthwatering Sindhi-Punjabi dish with a flavor which is a mixture of crunchiness , tanginess and a little spiciness. Even our next door neighbor Purna who was at our door that very moment encouraged we take that long pending breakfast shopping at one of Mumbai’s mini Punjab area Guru Teg Bhadur Nagar or Sion Koliwada as it is famously known.

So the next morning we trudged to Sion Koliwada around 9 o’clock in the morning. We took a taxi which drove through the narrow by-lanes of the area and dropped us in a lane which can be best described as foodies paradise. This lane is filled with small and big shops selling various varieties of snacks veg and non-veg items. We headed to Manjeet Chole Puri a small hole in the wall type eatery with the owner sitting at the counter taking orders. A loyal working hand just outside with a make shift cooking counter on which he makes the best ever Kulchas . You can order from Alu , Paneer or Alu-gobi mix as the stuffing and he starts his live show. He picks up a ball of soft maid dough , kneads it further to increase its softness .Makes a cup out of this dough and stuffs it with the stuffing you have selected , then bails it into a round roti with a rolling pin and then pokes it with his spindly finger. After making 3-4 such rotis , he sticks it in the improvised Tandoor made of a metal drum-barrel. The tandoor roasts the roti with right temperature to make crisp and soft and the same time. He then goes on to remove these roti’s with a metal rod and once again places then on the counter top. Then comes the best part , he picks up a slab of Amul butter and spreads it on the pipping hot Kulcha to give that dripping buttery taste , sprinkles it with  green coriander and cuts it into 4 parts like a pizza and pack it for you in an aluminum foil. The Kulcha is served with a tasty mix of authentic Punjabi Chole and raw onion and pickle.You also get the Punjabi version of the Dal Pakwan with a large crispy –crunchy Puri fried to perfect golden brown and served with the yellow dal and little bit of green chutney to give it a spicy –tangy taste.Another famous snack item and my all time  favorite is the Chole –Bhature. A great combination of large round and fluffy puri served with mouthwatering Chole. We picked this up a went hunting for what else but the Lassi without which the breakfast would have been incomplete.

You can get the lassi at Himalaya Restaurant in its earlier version was Himalaya Lassi & Falooda . Famous for its thick and sweet lassi with that layer of malai served in tall glass . Sip it and enjoy the heavenly feeling.

Just to let you into the history of Guru Teg Bhahadur Nagar (GTB Nagar) or Sion Koliwada , around 1947-50  Transits Camps were built by the then Indian Government for temporary settlement of Refugees from Border area.Majorly the Punjabi’s both Sikhs and Hindus migrated here and settled in these transit camps. Before the settlements of Sikhs and Hindu communities the land was swamp area and total mangrove plot used for fishing and fish breeding by Koli communities hence the name Koliwada.GTB nagar also hosts the Gurudwara Dashmesh Darbar , one of the largest in GTB Nagar and perhaps, in Mumbai too. The darbar offers an all-day langar with simple food for anyone in need and also runs basic computer-training courses for free and takes in students regardless of religion, caste or class.

The same lane where Manjeet is situated hosts a lot of other stalls like  the Sadar Paya House.The neighbourhood’s favourite Paya can be found at Sardar Paya House, popularly called Papu’s Paya, located in a tiny lane next to Hazara. The meat is tender, the paya soup flavourful and the price will only make you happy. There’s also Chicken Masala, which is spicy and juicy and has several takers.

Hazara Restaurant & Bar - GTB Nagar’s pride, the Fish Koliwada is an original recipe of Hazara Restaurant and Bar; the fish is marinated in spicy Koli masala and fried. Locals say that Hazara was one of the earliest restaurants in the neighbourhood. The legacy still continues and Hazara, which first opened as a small stall, now has A/C and Non-A/C rooms and serves alcohol as well. Other popular dishes here are the Murg Handi, Paneer Kulcha, Tandoori Chicken and Makke Di Roti and Sarson Da Saag.

Across the road from Hazara, is Mini Punjab whose catering wing you’ll find at almost every Punjabi wedding in the city. Skewered meat hangs around the little shop and the tandoor grills out flavour-packed Tandoori Chicken in white or red masala. Set-up by Hukum Singh, the debate on whether Mini Punjab makes the better Fish Koliwada or Hazara still rages on. Other items popular on the menu are Mini Punjab Special – chicken in Indian and Chinese spices, Fish/Prawn Koliwada and a host of tikka variations.

Another famous eatery is the Hardeep Punjab. Hardeep Punjab serves items like Chicken Platter, Corn Fry – wok-tossed American corn, Mutton Laal Pari, Fish Fry and more. The restaurant is popular in the area among guzzlers and has recently shifted to a larger space, upped their menu and is one of the finer restaurants on the street.

Punjabis and dhabas go hand-in-hand. With a few rickety wooden benches, clay tandoor oven and pans full of oil, the neighbourhood has several eateries that offer desi-khana like Chole Khulche, Rajma Chawal, Kadhi Pakoda and Chaas. Chawla’s Dhaba, Ramesh Da Dhaba (opposite Satyam Shivom Mandir) and Amarjeet Chole Puri are some of the popular spots in the locality. Frequented by taxi-wallahs, students and bachelors alike, these dhabas serve breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Need something to wash-down all the food? Hop over at Indra Cold Drinks for Kashmiri Soda. The shop-space claims to have invented the masala for Kashmiri Soda that no one has managed to ape perfectly, yet. Run by Mahesh Kumar Lamba, whose father is credited to have made the masala’s recipe, Lamba now extends the masala to make a Masala Thums Up, Masala Sprite and serves it in hearty glasses.

To satisfy your sweet tooth, walk further down the road from Mini Punjab, to Agarwal’s Kulfi Roll. Serving kulfis in kulhads, you could pick from four flavours: malai, mango, badam-pista and kesar-pista.

Maya Sweets and Guru Nanak Sweets are two sweet-shops the whole neighbourhood buys their favourite Imartis, Chenna Murki and other mithai from. Sitting beside each other, with shelves full of commercial and typical Punjabi mithai, this is sweet heaven. Stock up on some Petha Barfi – barfi with petha pieces. Punjabi Shakarpare, Namkeen Matthi, Pheeki Matthi, Gudd Pare are other items that you could pick up from either of the sweet shops.

If you wonder where your Punjabi Bollywood stars get their wheat flour from, walk in the lane next to Hazara. Roshan Da Atta, owned by Roshanlal Jhulka has been delivering aata to Dharmendra, Raj Kapoor, Hrithik Roshan and more for eons. Jhulka’s son who now carries the chakki’s name forward owns six other aata mills across the city. Khosla’s near Satyam Shivam Mandir is an ordinary grocery store. However, it stocks Amritsari Papad and varieties of pickles that are famous too.

All these mouthwatering and much for gastronomic delights in the area which is nothing short of a representation of Punjab in the heart of Mumbai.

We dashed home with the Dal Pakwan and the Alu Kulcha’s. Just as we were about to go we remembered we had not picked up the Lassi , Purna suggested we take the fresh Dahi and layer of malai and she would whip a good Lassi herself. As we reached home the parcels were still hot. Plates were laid on the dinning table and we dug into the butter dripping Kulcha’s with pindi chole , diced onion and achar. Yummy and finger licking . Next the Dal Pakwan was devoured and all this was then washed down with the home made sweet Lassi. With tummies filled the best ever break fast the only thing that was to be done was shout out ………………Bole Sau Nihal Sat Sri Akal…

Just Walking Around

Brindavan ki Holi Aur Goa’s Shimgotsav---Asli Holi

Just the other day I was watching a rerun of the epic Bollywood blockbuster “Sholay” for the 100^th time , I guess. Some movies you can watch over and over again and it feels better every time you watch them. This cult movie was the only movie in the History of Bollywood to have cassettes of its dialogues flying of the shelf faster than a hot bajia from a food counter. All the characters right from Soorma Bhopali , to the Angarezon ke zamane ka Jailor , to Ramu Kaka , Thakur , to Jai –Veeru to the epitome of villainy or the Baap of all villains “Gabbar” are all house hold names and have become immortal long after the film has taken down from the theaters.

Do you remember the scene in which Gabbar’s henchmen come back defeated from a skirmish with Jai-Veeru and He scowls with a mean look and asks Sambha (the skinny guy who always sit on the Hill top) Holi Kabh Hai ……Kabh hai Holi………

Yes it will be Holi time next week and the festival of colors will hopefully bring real happiness in our lives than our beloved Prime Minister’s promised Acche Din…Jokes apart Holi is truly a festive of joy and happiness.On the occasion of Holi a fire is lit in every big society compound as a token of burning away all the misery and sorrow and starting a new life , a life full of bright colors and happiness. The next day is celebrated as Dhuli vandan or festival of colors where young and old , men women and children enjoy the company of each other and have fun with Abhir- Gullal and other bright colors.

What we celebrate is just a fraction of the real festival. During my early days as a Sales Executive I had been to the land of Lord Krishna in Mathura –Brindavan .I was accompanying my project engineer stationed at Mathura for our Software project at IOCL Mathura. We were put up at a Kothi a ground plus two storied house of an Class 4 employee Mr.Ramgopal Yadav of IOCL refinery. A tall lanky fellow working as an electric technician at the refinery. His family of 4 would reside on the ground floor which was a 3 BHK unit .The leasing of upper rooms of his house being his extra income. The upper story included a 2 BHK unit with a big balcony facing the wide street in Mathura. The bedrooms had huge coolers –those ancient devices pre-historic to the modern AC’s. They were needed during the summers to cool the rooms so that you could sleep , else you would get fried in the heat .The weather outside would touch temperature close to 45-48deg Celsius during daytime and around 35-38deg Celsius. The electricity to these items of luxury was tapped illegally using local Katyiabaaz who would tap the local electric pole with an ingenious metal hook.

During my stay I was fortunate to see the Holi celebration in this land of Krishna. Holi celebration in Brijbhoomi starts a week before the actual day of the festival and continue for a few days after Holi.An enactment of beating up of men folk by the women folk symbolizing , beating of Krishna and his Gwala’s by the Gopi’s of Nandgaon is performed on the day Holi. With Holi songs playing in the background, women beat up these men with sticks as they try to protect themselves with improvised protective gear.This is the famous “Lathmar Holi”.The Holi with Colors can be experienced at the Bankey Bihari Temple in Brindavan. The hub of Holi celebrations in Brindavan is the Bankey Bihari temple. The temple, built in the 19th century, has four gates (three for entry and one for exit) and is dedicated to Lord Krishna. The season for Holi in Bankey Bihari starts off with Phoolon ki Holi where holi is played with flowers and ends with the main festival where colour and gulal are thrown. The entire temple complex is smeared in shades of pink even the air is filled with this gulal thrown by the locals celebrating the festival. Remembering those scenes of fun and frolic with these simple folks enjoying the festival of colors brings a smile to my face even today.

Another place where Holi is celebrated in its traditional spirit is Goa. Though I personally have not experienced it , I have been itching to go there hearing of the celebrations from my brother –in –law Jagdish Katkar. The Holi is this sun kissed region is known as Shimgo or Shigmo. The festival is celebrated mostly by the masses following all religious traditions. As expected from the Goans, the festival is accompanied with fanfare. Performance on drumbeats and epic enactment of mythology are religiously followed. Vivid and vibrant colours of gulal and neel are abundantly used. Shigmotav is highlighted with performances of troupes in the form of parades and cultural dramas. At dusk, huge effigies are taken in processions and prizes given away.

The 14-day celebrations of Shigmo coincide with Holi celebrations all over the country. For a good part of March, the streets of Goa transform into a cultural center full of dance and drama. The Shigmo festival is significant in many ways. It commemorates the homecoming of the warriors who had left at the end of Dussera to fight the invaders. It is also the spring festival of Goa where farmers celebrate the harvest season. There are two forms of Shigmo celebrations in Goa. Dhakto Shigmo and Vhadlo Shigmo. While Dhakto Shigmo is generally celebrated by farmers and the rural population, Vhadlo Shigmo has a broader appeal and is celebrated by everyone together. Dhakto Shigmo is more about the singing, dancing and procession on the streets while Vhadlo is to do with celebrations inside temples. The processions carried out during Shigmotasav are characterized by colorful umbrellas or dindis, modern floats depicting ancient Hindu mythological episodes, and folk dancers in traditional costumes. One of the dances performed is the Ghode morni or the horse dance and the Phugdi dance.

Shigmo and Holi make Goa extremely happening and convivial during March. Not only do you get a slice of Goan culture, you also get to interact with locals, play the festival of colors with them and participate in various Holi events all across Goa

So next time you want to try a different experience during the festival of colors do try visiting these special places be it Mathura-Brindavan or Goa during Holi or Shimgo…..And have a time of your life….

Wishing all my readers a Happy and a Safe Holi

PS: Did you know there are other places in the World where similar celebrations with either bright colors or water or even a vegetable like Tomatoes is carried out.

Water Fight in Thailand - As Thai New Year arrives, it is welcomed with the world's biggest water fight. Thai people and tourists indulge in water fights, approaching each other with water balloons. This festival, held between April 13 and April 15, envisages the concept of cleansing with water in order to purify and renew.

Colour Music Festival in Texas - Colour Jam, a colourful music festival was held in Texas in 2015. The festival featured live music concert, colour throws and colour fights.

The Colour Run in London - One can get a taste of Holi in London, where 'The Colour Run' festival takes place. Participants run in a five-kilometre street, wearing a white shirt and as the colours are sprayed at them they, get covered from head to toe with every kilometre of the course. The event takes place in the cities of London, Manchester , Glasgow and Birmingham. 

Life In Colour in Florida - One of the biggest colour festivals, 'Life In Colour' started out as a college festival in Florida in 2011, later progressing into a worldwide colour party.

Color Festival in Kiev , Ukrain -The most colorful event, which is eagerly expected by a lot of Kiev residents and tourists - Holi colors festival. Yes, the main feature of the festival will be paint. All the participants will be able to shower each other with bright colors, thus giving a smile, a laugh and a loud outburst of emotion around and the feeling that there is no monotony of everyday life and everything is bright and wonderful.

And finally La Tomatina in Spain --- is a festival that is held in the Valencian town of Bunol a town located in the East of Spain, in which participants throw tomatoes and get involved in this tomato fight purely for entertainment purposes.

Just Walking Around

Aathawda Baazar --- The mesmerizing world of Weekly Bazaar.

Its well know that India is an Agrarian society and 80% of its population still lives in its villages. Its heart lies in these culturally diverse but all-encompassing small in-habitation known in local languages as Gaon or Gaav. Much has been written and said about the village life. Even today most of the villages don’t have proper shops or all in one malls that we in the cities take for granted. The simple folks of these villages sell or buy their produce at the local markets called the Aathwada bazaar or the weekly markets. The local administration usually the Gram Panchayat earmarks a vacant plot of land where shops are allowed to be put up by the villagers to sell what they produce or procure from neighbouring towns. A fixed day of the week is designated for this weekly market hence the name Aathavada bazaar as it falls on a specific day of the week. Easy to remember and shopping for the entire week for all the folks. Usually its in the middle of the week “Wednesday” or on the weekends “Fridays” , when the market is set up. Most of the shop owners are the farmers or fruit vendors or grocers . Sometimes if the Bazaar is well known then people from neighbouring villages also set up their shops to get a larger audience.

The best experience of these Aathawada Baazar can be had in villages in Konkan especially in Ratnagiri area. SATURDAY morning, 7 o’clock or thereabouts, a certain madness sets into Ratnagiri as housewives and men of the house get up early and make a dash for the ‘Athawda’ bazaar near the old ST bus-stand there. And this is a weekly bazaar that has been going on here for the past ten years or so. There’s nothing official about it, of course, but the Athawda bazaar is encouraged by the local Municipality. The municipality comes in on Sunday to clean up the place and return the area to its somewhat less than pristine glory of before the Athawda bazaar. The bazaar is held, like a flea market on a Goan beach, once a week on Saturday. This is a good day for a bazaar because most people shop for the entire next week here. And they get an opportunity to bump into old friends and gossip. It is not as if Ratnagiri does not have its regular markets. Most housing colonies have a small bhajiwala outside that caters to the residents. And on prominent streets in the city, on a smaller scale than the Athawda bazaar, fruit and vegetable vendors run a small market on Tuesdays.

Besides which, at the Athawda bazaar venue on week days, Ratnagiri’s ‘Maamis’ in their half-Navaris (nine-yard sarees) sit on the footpaths and sell veggies and fruit grown locally. Whatever is in season, and whatever quantity they have, is put up for sale. It could be anything from firewood to jackfruit. These Maamis don’t do business by weights but deal in portions. They don’t understand kilos and litres. Everything is a “wata” measure here. The Athawda bazaar goes on all day. The vendors come with fruits and vegetables and other consumer items from all the small villages in and around Ratnagiri. Some come from as far as Sangli and Miraj in trucks, driving overnight for five or six hours, so as to be early at the Athawda bazaar with their produce.

The Maamis don’t come on out Saturday. This day is meant for serious, big-time shopping. When everything is sold by weight. When people come for “imported, exotic” vegetables and not the local greens grown in the backyard of the Maamis’ homes. And where the bhajiwalas have fixed spots and fixed customers who enjoy their weekly bargain with them. Everything is garden fresh. And the variety is vast and complete. Not like the small Tuesday market on the local streets. Vegetables and fruit are the big draw at the Athawda bazaar. And spices. The bazaar has any number of vendors with their spices in big sacks and in small watas.

One small section is segregated, perhaps because of the smell, for the dry-fish sellers. These are all generally women. And though Ratnagiri is a coastal city and has a jetty where fresh fish be bought daily, there are several takers for the dry-fish here. This too is sold by the wata, not the kilo, and the fish vendor has measures made of brass and wood to sell the dry-fish.

By evenings, the fruit, vegetable and dry-fish vendors leave, and the Athawda bazaar is taken over by sellers of household items. Everything from buckets and pans to aluminum scrubs and junk jewellery. The last sales are done under lights thrown by lamps.

A recent phenomenon of the same type experience in our very own city of Mumbai is the “Farmer’s Market” at various location. Once such farmers market happens very near to where we stay at King Circle at the grounds of Indian Gymkhana. Here on a Tuesday’s farmers co-operatives from as far as Nashik , Kolhapur , Sangli and Satara come with their farm fresh produce in small tempos. You can wander around their stalls and be awestruck at the size and freshness of the vegetables they bring. The veggies are green and mostly organically produced with no chemical fertilizers. You can get the largest Cauliflowers and cabbages . The potatoes and onion are also of best quality , which do not get in your local neighborhood markets. Even the exotics veggies like Broccoli , Zucchini –Green& Yellow, Bell peppers – Red & Yellow , Celery and Iceberg Lettuce are the freshest and  mouth watering.

There are fruit vendors bringing fresh and juiciest  fruits from across Maharashtra. Grape growers association bring the best ever grapes . They are cherubic , large and sweet to the core. Not like the piddly ones we get at the local fruit seller. The Strawberries from Mahabaleshwar & Panchgani are ruby red and mix of sweet & sour taste. Even the Ber or the Bor fruit which arrive just before Makar Sankranti are of good variety . Large , golden and very sweet. The green ones are the size of  small apples. The pineapples are bright orange and sweet to the core. Even the water melons from Panvel or Aliabug are bright red on the inside and real sweet. Make a glass of juice or have just like that for a healthy life.

At other stalls you even get fresh grains like rice , wheat , bajara & jowar . Pulses like channa, rajma,  chawli also of good quality. The puffed rice or Poha are soft , fresh and white . And you expect the best Poha dish when you make the traditional Maharashtrian Kande or batate pohe. Some stalls keep the fresh ground masala’s like red chilly powder , turmeric power and special mixture like garam masal or the Kolhapuri masala used in non-veg dishes. Expect the taste to be spicy and hot when put in dishes like Missals or in Chicken and Mutton gravies.

All these farm fresh vegetables and fruits are at very economical rates as they are directly sold by the farmers themselves. There are no overheads of the APMC market or the middle men .

If you want to experience some fun and chaos and shop for some sundry item head to the Budhwar Bazaar or the Wednesday Market near St.Micheal’s Church at Mahim . Vendors put up their shops on the footpath leading to church. Here you can have a wonderful time picking up accessories like hair clips , hair band , wrist band , oxidized anklets etc for the girls and women. Some sell handbags , sling bags , clutch bags and purses sourced from whole sellers in and around Mumbai city. Some bring hosiery tops , frocks and dresses from manufacturing units in Vasai or Bhiwandi. These are soft and cute. You can also get lot of regular use stationary items like erasers in different shapes and sizes , colour crayons , sketch pens , glitter pens and foot long ball pens. Some sell house hold items made of recycled plastics like boxes , containers , buckets , washing brushes , scrubs at bargain prices. Some sell cotton bed sheets and cushion covers in good colors and designs.

So next time you want to shop for fresh veggies , fruits or even some sundry item do head to these Athawada bazaar’s and experience the thrill amidst the chaos ..

Have fun and enjoy the shopping…