Just Walking Around

Wheeler the world of books….

For a person like me who is constantly travelling the lengths and breadths of India and sometimes abroad due to my Software Sales profession my constant companion is my travel bag and my Kindle or the Kindle app on my Mobile. It’s the only support in case of delayed flights at the Airport lounges or during the yawning waits at Railway station waiting rooms. It’s the best use of time to catch up on reading through all the chaos swirling around. Instead of getting agitated and all stressed out on the delays. I always keep a book handy in my hand baggage or the Laptop bag-pack as means to de-stress.

Thumbing through the pages of the latest paperback take my mind away from the urge of constantly being connected over Whatsapp, Facebook or Instagram . And the best thing is you don’t have to feel frustrated over the slow speed of WiFi or mobile data and the constant scare of your mobile battery getting discharged to zero. All you need is well light and a good cozy spot in the lounge or the waiting room and a clear view of the Flight Status display or the Train arrival rolling display to take the right decision to move to the departure area / correct platform to catch the next flight or train to your next destination. The in between time is spent in a mystical word of words enjoying a fast paced action Thriller like “Inferno” or a detective novel like “Murder on the Orient Express” or the action packed mythological thriller like Oath of the Vayuputras or Sita the Warrior Princess. Each one bring joy and containment as you read along. When I am out of stock for the books that I carry or have forgotten to pack a novel the one thing that comes to my rescue are those A.H Wheeler book stalls on the ubiquitous Indian Railway platforms. These small but well stocked stalls are present on almost all the railway platforms across India . You will find them even in the remotes station in India. Manned by a single person dishing out everything from News paper to magazines to year books, Cook books, latest English paperbacks to self help books and books in Hindi and other local regional languages. You will find a Wings of Fire by the late APJ Abdul Kalam sharing space with a  Amish Tripathi’s “:Immortals of Meluha” and jostling for space with a racy Hindi horror book like “Khooni Aatma” or even a coffe table book on the Tastes and Flavours of India.

But did you know how these unique book stalls mushroomed on these lazy Indian Railway platforms. A. H. Wheeler or simply Wheeler, is an entirely Indian owned company. It owns a bookstore chain that was co-founded by Emile Moreau, a French businessman, T. K. Banerjee, an Indianbusinessman and others in Allahabad in 1877, operating from railway stations

A. H. Wheeler borrowed its name from the then-successful London bookstore and its owner, "Arthur Henry Wheelers", who was also a friend of Emile Moreau and helped him financially.

At a time when booksellers every where appear to be threatened lot, the life of Emile Edouard Moreau who set up A H Wheeler & Co, the chain of railway bookstalls that endure to this day ,appears as a fascinating example of a man with interests that spanned continents , and yet about whom there remains much that is mysterious.

In 1877 , when he was a young man of around 20, Moreau set up what would be the 1^st of the A H Wheeler bookstalls at the Allahbad Railway Station. The East Indian Railways, which had commenced operations from Calcutta northward in 1854, was then expanding its operations from Allahbad to north India. The line from Allahabad to Jabalpur had already been constructed in 1867 and so far the first time Calcutta & Bombay were connected by rail via these two cities.

Moreau was at that time a young employee of the managing agency Bird & Company in Allahabad. Moreau’s familiarity with the railway station at Allahabad , where he lived , meant that he soon noticed the demand for reading material , especially from the first class passengers. As the story goes when a friend of his , AH Wheeler concluded that he had way too much books in his home library, Moreau decided to sell them from a wooden Almirah at the station.

Encouraged by the response he got , he set up a few others the A H Wheeler & Co (named after his friend) , in Allahabad. In late 1880’s A H Wheeler & Co found fame and controversy in equal measures. Moreau develoed bigger plans and decisded to become a publishing house. The Railways had expanded and Wheeler’s bookstalls a familiar feature at Railway Stations across the United Province ( the erstwhile combined state of Uttar Pradesh & Uttarakhand which included the princely states of Agra and Awadh) , the North Wester Provinces and beyond in the first decade of its existence.

In 1888 still in Allahabad , Moreau made a business proposal to Rudiyard Kipling ( author of Jungle Book ) who was a writer for The Pioneer and also the Civil & Military Gazette or CMG (newspapers published out of the city). Kipling’s 1^st novel  a collections of his short stories called The Plain Tales from The Hills, had already been published by the Calcutta –based Thacker and Spinl & co. It was Moreau who offered to publish his stories in book form.

Over next few years several of Kipling’s early novels formed part of Wheeler’s Indian Railways Library Series. The other books beginning with Soldiers Three were “Wee Willie Winkie” , “Under the Deodars”, “The Story of the Gadsby”,In Black & White , The Phantom Rickshaw and the other Eerie Tales , which has the famous story , The Man who would be King. These were sold for a princely sum of One Rupee.

When Rudyard Kipling reached London he found more fame than he had bargained for. Moreau had sent copies of the Indian Railway Library Series publications to the British firm Sampson Low, whose editor Andre Lang saw huge potential in these stories.

Soon the agreement betweek Wheler’s and Kipling was to be reworked all publicationrights Wheeler’s had on Kipling’s work outside India were sold back to him , Wheeler’s continued to retain the Indian rights. In his memoirs, Kipling apparently mentioned his early encounter with Moreau, describing him as someone who “came of an imaginative race , used to taking chances”

Once World War I began , Moreau found himself greatly in demand by the Britis Government , especially by the Ministry of Mutinies under which the Propaganda department functioned.Britain’s war propaganda department was set up only after realization of the efficacy of the German Propaganda department .Moreau’s knowledge & experience of the East made him indispensableand it was Edward E Long the Chief of Eastern Propoganda who collaborated with Wheeler’s to dessminate information during War time.

By June of 1915 the department had distributed 2.5 million books in atleast 17 languages. In particular the Bryce Report written around this time relating to German atrocities on Belgian citizens in late 1914 was translated into 30 languages.

Towards the end of World War I in 1917 A H Wheeler split into 2 distinct branches with Arthur H Wheeler & Co operating in London and A H Wheeler & Co in India. Moreau however had numerous other interest. He travelled widely and servered as Director of Companies with interests in Rubber in Java and oil in Malay States.

Little is known of his family life but he remained devoted to his institute Framlingham College till his death in 1937. He was a generous individual benefactor – instrumental in setting up sports facilities for its students and instituting scholarships that carry his name and are provided to this day.

These A H Wheeler book stalls on India Railway platforms,a legacy inherited from the British Raj but one which keeps the written word alive and kicking in today’s day age of the Digital revolution…

So next time if your train is late and you find yourself waiting in the AC Waiting Rooms leave those power hungry Smart phones. Instead of checking your Facebook, head down the platform to the nearest Wheeler and pick up a paperback and emerse your self in the mesmerising world of words.

Happy Reading…

Just Walking Around

Exotic Leafy Greens and other veggies

Ask any kid today what veggies they like as toppings in their Pasta - Pizza , they would roll off exotic names like Zucchini , Broccoli , Cherry Tomatoes , Mushrooms ,Bell Peppers Red & Yellow , Ice Lettuce spices like Oregano and Thyme… Even my 5 year old Bhakti tucks into Mushrooms and Zucchini's  with relish. But to me the exotics veggies are those that make me remember my childhood  These veggies had their own unique taste and texure and when made into special curries would be polished off from the dinner plates. As the holy month of Shravan is about to start here’s my ode to some Special and exotics Veggies some known and some uncommon to the general public.

What is the first thing that comes to your mind when you hear Leafy Green Vegetables , the obvious choice would be Palak (Spinach) , Methi (Fenugreek) and Chauli (Amaranth) . Either made into dry vegetables using onion as accompaniment or into curry using coconut and garam masala . These go well with garma garm Bhakri be it Rice or Jowar ones and if its made on woodfired chula the taste is heavenly with its smoky taste. But there’s more to green leafy vegetables than just these Trimutri..

It is a universally acknowledged fact that leafy green vegetables are natures best nutrition supplements. They are packed with iron, calcium , vitamins antioxidants and are vital components of a healthy diet.

Yet apart from these usal ubiquitious suspects few people know about the rich culinary repertoire of local and seasonal edible greens that grow across India. From treating common ailments to adding variety to a simple diet, these indigenious super exotic veggies have been consumed in rural India for centuries.

So if you are looking to infuse some fresh flavours into your regular food here are some leafy greens that you might be walking past at the vegetable marlet without even realizing what you are missing.

Bichu buti or Sisunaak saag or Stinging Nettle is a seasonal plant which grows through out the Himalayan region of India. Once touched this unusual plant can give you an itch and a rashes that last for couple of hours. But once cooked it doesn’t sting the palate. Rich in natural fibres this super nutritious plant has been used as diuretic , laxative and allergy relief remedy. It’s also proven to benefit the skin , bone and urinary health.

Takla also called Cassia Tora is a wild leafy vegetable that makes its way into the local market during monsoons. It is easily available in Mumbai right from the start of the rainy season. This leafy vegetable is favorite among Konkani people. Takle is extremely beneficial for health has great medicinal value and consuming it helps to keep monsoon related ailments at arm length. One of the best recipe for Takla is its Tamboli or a green chutney type dish. Pick only the tender leaves and discard the stems. Rinse them , drain all the water and leave them to dry on a soft muslin cloth. In a frying pan heat clarified butter or ghee , add cumins (jeera) , when they crackle add pepper and green chillies. Add the Takla leaves and saute on low flame till they change colour. Cool the mix and grind into a smooth paste along with fresh coconut salt and tamarind to give it a sweet sour taste. Add more water to give it that Tamboli consistence not too thick nor too thin. A healthy and nutritious Tamboli is ready to be served. Best eated with steamed rice and fried Papad. Taste like heaven . Try it next time you are bored of the usual Kadi-Bhath or the Khichadi.

Another unusal green vegetable is the Ambushi / Ambuti is a local plant with its bright yellow flowers is seen growing on the roadside in rural areas during monsoons. It can be turned into a vegetable dish with minimal spices or a fresh kadhi to tackle indigestion. In Konkan local Ambushi is ground into a paste to treate severe headaches.

Then there is the Mayalu , a creeper which grows in wild in courtyards, pots and gardens all over Maharashtra. The thick soft leaves make a delicious vegetable that can be combined with lentils and in some coastal area even with sea food like shrimps or prawns.Known as Indian Spinach or Malabar nightshade this green veggie is supposed to have a cooling effect on the digestive system.It has a little astringent taste and is effective in tackling arthritis.

If plants could be superheroes , Moringa ( adapted from Tamil & Malyalam word for drumstick ) would definitely be one of them. Every part of this ubiquitious tree can be consumed – leaves and pods as food the seeds , bark flowers and roots as medicine. This one is also called Saijan Saag or Shevgyacha Paala . The leaves especially are highly nutritious. Can be made into dry vegetable or tasty cutlets / pattice using channa dal and jiggery . Eaten with fresh mint chutney it’s a perfect evening snack during the rainy season.

Ambadi in Marathi , Gongura in Telgu or Pulicha Keerai in Tamil and Pundi in Karnataka is a leafy vegetable with tangy and little sour tasting leaves. This leafy vegetable is used to make tangy mutton and a zesty toor dal or a spicy pickle .

Another uncommon leafy veggie is Kulfa / Ghol or luni saag is highly underrated not just in taste but also in health benefits. In India, physicians have long been recommending it for everything form reducing fever to removing worms and soothing urinary infections. In fact it was a favourite of Mahatma Gandhi who wrote about in his magazine. Modern science too has made it clear why it is of such value , apart from it providing significant amounts of vitamin A, B & C and descent amounts of protein this leafy green probably contains more Omega 3 fatty acids than any other commonly available vegetable source. Interestingly most botanical studies credit India as its country of origin and Euell Gibbons the American expert on foo has even labelled it as Indias gift to the World.

Anne Soppu in Karnataka and Kalmi Saag in West Bengal or Water Spinach as it is known grows wild like a weed along river banks and in paddy fields. Its mild yet distinctly savoury tate combination of long arrow shaped leaves and crunchy hollow stems. In Bengal its stri fried with garlic , green chillie's and gram to make a lip smacking vegetable dish or in Karnataka the same leaves are made into a delicious sweet –sour-spicy chutney with urad dal to give it a binding and rough texture.

And the most famous and recognizable leafy green vegetable during the monsoon is the Alu or Arbi ka patta.The potato resembling roots of Arbi or Colocasia is well known ingredient in most Indian households. But did you know that the jumbo heart –shaped leaves of this herbaceous plant are delicious as well. In fact, several indigenous cuisines across India especially in Bihar , Jharkhand , Bengal , Uttar Pradesh , Uttarakhand and Himachal Pradesh, have traditional dishes prepared with Arbi ka patta also called Saru Saag or Taro leaves. From Gujrati Patra or Maharashtrian Alu Wadi  (a spicy besanmix is slathered over leaves which are then rolled steamed and then deep fried to make perfect crunchy side dish or starter to the thali. In south India these leaves are made into coconut milk based curry with cut leaves or leaves rolled to form Gathi or knots. The culinary variations on this vegetable are manifold thanks to its robust falvour.

Then there is the Chakod , Chakunda or Chakramarda Saag , the cassia tora plant grows wild like weed spreading like lush carpet during the monsoon in the forested areas of Bihar , Jharkhand and Chattisgarh and in the coastal belt of Karnataka and Goa. It is eaten as a vada (lentil Fritters) as a vegetable mix with dried coconut and jackfruit seed (bikna) and as a simple stir fry served with finger-millet bhakri.

Some other exotic vegetables though not leafy greens are again worth their taste in gold. Like the tender bamboo shoots. Monsoon rains bring spikes of tender bamboo shoots. About 3-4 year old bamboos have a new shoot arising from the underneath root-system above the ground. Within a few weeks these bamboo shoots grow a few feet in length above the ground. Tender bamboo shoots within 2-3 feet in length are edible & are eaten as a vegetable.  When a young, cone-shaped new bamboo shoot just appears above the ground surface, it is chopped off from its root attachment, generally using a spade. It is consumed as a delicacy. On its exterior, bamboo shoot has several layers of tough casing of leaves, firmly wrapped around its central cream-white heart which is the edible portion of bamboo shoot. It is crunchy in texture, and has mild yet distinctive flavor. Once boiled and cured, it however, acquires almost a neutral taste.

Fresh bamboo shoots are crunchy, even after cooking. Pickled bamboos get soft with time but still remain chewy. Young, tender shoots are a seasonal delicacy in East Asian regions, & south east asian countries.

In Karnataka, bamboo shoots are used as a special dish during the monsoons (due to seasonal availability). It goes by the name kanile or 'kalale in Kannada. And are known as kirlu in Konkani.

Konkani cuisine includes various delicacies using fresh bamboo shoots. Tender bamboo shoots once are chopped off have a very limited shelf life. They start to go bad within 4-6 days. Hence, they are pickled/cured to be used throughout the year. 

Fresh tender bamboo shoots are available only for the first few months of monsoon every year. And the only way to have ample of them throughout the year is to preserve them by curing/pickling. Season’s glut is thus preserved in brine for years to come.

Fresh bamboo shoots have to be consumed only on cooking or on pickling. You can’t & shouldn’t eat them raw. Raw bamboo shoots contain (cyanogenic glycosides), natural toxins. Cooking, pickling destroys these toxins.

Even before you cook fresh bamboos you have to keep pieces of bamboo shoots soaked in water for two to three days, where the water is drained and replenished with fresh water each day to extricate and remove toxins. 

Bamboo shoots are edible when they’re young. They harden as they mature. Tender bamboo shoots are commonly sold in the local markets during the months of June to September when young bamboo shoots sprout.

Tender bamboo shoots that are collected, are defoliated, soaked in water for 2-3 days, then are boiled in water to remove its bitter taste after which it is ready for consumption, to go into a dish. The water used to cook fresh bamboo is discarded as it tastes bitter & unpleasant. These tender fresh bamboo shoots are then used in cooking.

These fresh tender bamboo shoot pieces are then used to make various dishes like:

1. Keerla sukke/chakko (bamboo shoots in a spicy coconut masala), 

2. Keerla ambade ghashi (a coconut based curry with bamboos and hog plums),

3. kirla ghashi with mugu (bamboos in a spicy coconut curry with green gram).

Konkani cuisine has it's set of tender bamboo shoot delicacies.

Pickled tender bamboo shoots are used to prepare

1. kirla bajo (bamboo fritters)

2. kirla sanna polo (spicy rice based pancakes with bamboo shoots), 

3. keerla fry (shallow fried pickled bamboos), 

4. keerla phodi (spicy pan fried bamboos),

5. suyee ghashi (coconut based curry) from the pickled bamboo shoots.

Some people who taste fresh, cooked bamboo shoots for the first time may feel an unpleasant taste/smell. But proper cooking removes the unpleasant taste & smell.

So next time you go to your local vegetable market , during the monsoon season pick up these seasonal vegetable till the rains last. If you manage to get them do not skip trying these truly exotic Indian vegetables as they are not only good for health but even great to taste…