Just Walking Around

Bade Miyaan to Bade Miyan Chote Miyann Subhan Allah……

You can visit the fanciest of restaurants in their 5 star ambience and all the paraphernalia that comes with them which they call service and sometimes the experience and still come out dis-satisfied with the taste of the food or the food spread on offer. The one thing I know from the various outings that I have made alone during my sales visits or with family when I am home , is never judge the book by its cover. So let me tell you about some small joints in this city of Mumbai which should be on every foodies list and which thrive on the goodwill they have garnered from their patrons over the years. Nothing fancy no show shaa just basic stuff but one thing that is common is the taste that lingers on and makes you want to visit them again and again.

If you are in the Fort area there are 3 such eateries that you cannot give a miss if you a true non-veg lover. Just near the busy Crawford Market as the J J Flyover ends on the left hand side as you move towards VT or CST station there is a small restaurant . If you blink you may even miss it. Its been there for nearly 6 decades and goes by the name of Hotel Grant House. Or people familiar with this establishment know it simply as Police Canteen. It all started when a young lad from Andhra Pradesh landed up in Mumbai in 1940’s. Young Laxman Varma used to run errands in restaurants near the Victoria Terminus. His customers included the local constabulary and police officers. Some of them used to tell Varma that he should get into the food business himself instead of just being a handyman.He took them seriously.Varma started ᡃfirst with basic snacks. Batata vadas, omelettes. He then ventured into his best ever recipe --kheema or minced meat curries. He would carefully note down down the reactions of his customers to his offerings  what worked and what   didn’t….quantities, recipes, dishes…fix his formulas and then try to maintain them.

His shop was popularly known as the ‘Police Canteen’ as many police folks used to come to eat here. It wasn’t one though. This building housed the Prohibition Office ,when Mumbai had one. It was also the house of a Governor Grant at one point. In 1996 the ‘Police Canteen’ shifted premises to a shop next door to the Haj Building and renamed itself as, what else, ‘Grant House’.Currently run by his two son’s Shekhar and Shreedhar , the hotel still boats of the old world charm . Some of the waiters here have worked nearly for three decades and know the regular customers by individual names. Their most famous and legendary dish is the Kheema-Pav.. Roughly minced meat with a good robust bite, cooked in a garam masala stamped curry, with a feather pillow soft pao to mop it up with a Coke or a Thunps Up. The perfect traveller’s meal. The other speciality is  the Kheema -Bheja Mix. A half an half of mouth watering Kheema and soft and succulent Bheja (Brain) masala made to perfection. Leaving a lingering taste on ones tongue. You can also try their fresh bombil fry or the fish platter with Paplet , Bangda and Ravas fry . All the fish picked up fresh from the docks or the neighbouring fish market. Have the fry fish with steamed rice and dal . nothing beats with combination. Sometimes you can try their excotic dishes like the Crab masala with the gravy seeped in crab juices making it the best .The flavours of the crab run through every drop of the gravy. This is so unusual in Mumbai where the flavours of the masalas outshout that of the seafood in curries in restaurants here. The curry in Grant House was all about the crab which stamped its presence even when absent.Other dish which is equally popular is the Tisrya masala or the Shell fish gravy again enjoyed with rice. For the chicken lover you can try their Chicken Biryani. Very Light in nature and not too much masala or too much oil. Just right. The chicken very succulent. Pieces of onions and the rough masalas strewn through the delicately flavoured basmati tukda rice. If you are in Mumbai and if Hyderabadi biryani is your thing then the one at Grant House comes pretty close.

Hotel Grant House has its set of loyalists. Folks came trooping in that afternoon including some who lived close by and now have migrated to far of suburbs like Kalyan-Dombivili. Most of them when in this part of town are sure to take a parcel of the famous Kheema Masala or the Kheema -Bheja and sometimes even the Biryani..

Another legendary place in south Mumbai is the  Britannia & Co at Ballard Estate. Housed in a heritage building with British era architecture. It all started  in 1923, like a few other Zoroastrian immigrants from Iran, Rashid Kohinoor decided to get into the restaurant business in the city once known as Bombay. Could he have imagined that Britannia & Co. would have people requesting reservations right up to era of iPad menus?

Britannia & Co. is now in the able hands of the third generation, still whipping up food influenced by the family’s Iranian and Parsi roots. It is not hard to imagine what the joint must have looked like when it first threw open its doors to the British Officers stationed in the Fort area. Not much, has changed including the wooden furniture imported from Europe during the eatery's early years.

A few modern amenities like a phone and the five-foot odd stacks of air-tight containers, aluminum foil boxes and other packaging paraphernalia have been added and help Britannia run a thriving home-delivery business in South Mumbai.

The earliest offerings of Britannia were reflective of the family’s Iranian heritage. But Boman’s late wife, Bachan, was a Parsi and after their marriage she introduced Parsi specialties like sali boti (mutton gravy with crispy fries) and dhansak (chicken or mutton in a lentil gravy) and fish patra or Patra ni Macchi the steamed fish in banana leaf to the menu. Ironically, she was also the force behind the very famous and very Iranian berry rice pulav.It was she who suggested that berry pulav be introduced and to this day, the barberry in Britannia’s signature dish is imported from Iran. But the dish has been adapted to suit Indian tastes. The pulav in Iran is dry and just lightly flavored, whereas Britannia’s version is spicier and more like an Indian biryani, with the pulav rice heaped over a gravy dish. Part of Britannia's charm is its legacy and also the widespread attention it has received from the local and international media. It is not uncommon for locals, travelers and tourists to walk in with copies of articles that might have appeared in a French gourmet magazine or a local daily. Even the humble, basic chapati from Britannia enjoys international acclaim. Patrons are agog over their melt-in-the-mouth quality. So next time you are in the vicinity of Ballard Estate , Horniman Cirlcle or the iconic Asiatic Library and want to dig into some Berry Pulav or authentic Parsi food head straight to Britannia & Co. You won’t be disappointed.

One other favourite of the night crawlers of Mumbai is a restaurant most famous for its mouth watering Kebabs and Mutton dishes. In a lane just behind the great Taj Hotel is situated this gem of a restaurant more like a road side eatery patorinzed by the foddies and Bhookads of Mumbai. This is known simply as Bademiya.

It was established in 1946 by Mohammad Yaseen as makeshift seekh kabab counter. The counter has now branched out into several restaurants, takeaway joint and a permanent food stall at the original location. Its well known in foodie history that Yaseen moved to Mumbai at the age of 13 and became a butcher. He also started supplying meat to hotels. In 1946 Hazrat Fida Mohammed Adam Chisti, who was the religious Guru of Yaseen, gave him ₹20 as seed money to start the counter. Yaseen started the food counter at Apollo Bundar near Mumbai naval port as late-night snack option for naval officers living nearby.The business picked and got roaring response from all Mumbaikars. The rest as they say History…..

The business is at its peak during night time and at its chaotic best during weekends. Its one foodie joint which open till 3 in the morning . Non-veg lovers come from far and beyond , sit themselves at the make shift sitting area in a dilapated building where they are served by over worked waiter . Some park their cars and served by the very same waiters on the car bonnets. The menu is simple , you can try their Bhuna Chicken or Bhuna Mutton with Roomali roti and offcourse you can not miss their Seekh kebabs both available in Chicken and Mutton. Served well with a slice of lime , some onion rings and that tasty pudina (mint) chutney. The other tasty kebabs are the Mutton Boti kebab or the melt in your mouth Chicken/ Muttom Malai kebab . Try their specialty Shammi Kebabs a little spicy but great in taste. Looks like tikki’s or pattice than kebabs. Another signature dish is the Mutton Baida roti Meat stuffed in handmade bread with onions , chilly and as the name suggest baida or egg and all this cooked on a hot Tawa (hot plate) .If you are still famished for food order their Dum biryani again both available in Chicken and Mutton. They also serve prawn tikka masala and fish tikka masala but its their kebabs they famous for . Over the years though they have compromised on their taste a bit and their serving portions have become small making the food a tad too expensive. But if you are a Kebab lover just go for it.

Recently they have started their fine dine restaurant at Horniman Circle. For those who want to eat these famous dishes but want a good ambience and more so a proper seating , this ones and great place to visit with your family on a weekend. But make sure you have reservation or be prepared to wait for a longish time.

So next you want have a lip smacking time head to these South Mumbai small (Chote) but famous food joints and have the time of your life…..

No fancy ambience like those 5 star establishment with uniformed waiter , elaborate menu cards and stiff upper lipped Consigliere but only focused on good food.

Who kehte hain Naa ---“Bade Miyan to Bade Miyan Chote Miyan Subhaan Allah…”

Just Walking Around

Aam Panha & Sugar Cane juice----Refreshing Summer Coolers….

The other day I was rushing from one meeting to another in the scorching Mumbai summer sun. With sweat trickling down the spine and my shirt literally drenched ,was feeling extremely thirsty.Just then I chanced upon a Rasvanti Gruh a typical sugar cane juice center. A small tapri type place with wooden benches for seating and small wooden tables on which to place your ordered glasses. The owner a warkari by tradition with white tikka on his fore head and tulsi bead mala (necklace). He had this electric powered sugar cane crushing machine with a tray at the bottom with a slab of ice placed such that the juice flowing down is cooled before it is filtered and collected in the vessel below. You could order a glass of regular iced sugar cane juice or a jumbo glass . On special request he would add a dash of lime and ginger to give the drink an extra zing. Sitting there in that small shed the world outside looked more intimidating with the blazing sun staring down on you from above. With the first gulp of the sweet nectar like sugar cane juice , i could feel pleasant and cool. By the time I finished the glass i felt all energized to take on the world and the ready to move to my next meeting. I licked my lips and smiled at the moustache formed from the juice foam and thanked the owner before leaving.

As I think back we in India are always conscious of the changing seasons and make our food and drinks preparations according to these changes. As the summer descend on us most of us stock up on the various Summer Coolers. These chilled juices and sherbets made from seasonal fruits, herbs and spices and anytime better than those fizzy cold drinks available in the markets.

Some of these traditional coolers you can try are Shikanji -  North India’s favourite summer lemonade with a twist. Simple spices like roasted cumin, pepper and black salt shine through to create a perfect balance of flavours in this light refreshing drink.Another  exotic coastal drink, Kokum sherbet is extremely popular among the residents of the Konkan region (it grows nowhere else in the world!). A sweet and sour fruity flavour, and that gorgeous red colour just add to the appeal of this unique revitalizing drink. Kokum sherbet is also an exceptional cure for those uncomfortable bouts of acidity.Another exotic or a Nawabi drink is the Gulab Sherbet . A lovely rose red in colour, the fragrant Gulab sherbet tastes just as good as it looks. Infused with fresh rose petal extract, this cooling draught is sweet and summery with a mild floral aroma. The perfect way to cool your body and mind on a sultry afternoon, Gulab sherbet is your trusted ally in summer!

A South Indian heat stroke buster is the Nannari Sherbet is a refreshingly zesty summer drink. With its tremendous cooling properties and sublime flavor. A crowd favourite to beat the scorching summer heat in South India, it tastes best served with a dash of lime and tons of crushed ice.

With an unbeatable tangy flavour that will captivate your taste buds, Aam Panna is the ideal drink for hot summer days and is immensely loved in Maharashtra. After all, there is something poetic about raw green mangoes enticing our eager taste buds in a moment that lingers forever. Another  popular Maharashtian summer drink, 'Piyush' literally means Amrit or the drink of the Gods. Soothing, serenading and decadent, this creamy drink, made by combining shrikhand, buttermilk and myriad dry fruits in the right quantity, is certainly a taste to reckon with. A cousin of the Kokum Sherbet is the deliciously soothing drink made from coconut milk and kokum, Sol Kadi. It is famous for being an effective relaxant, a rich anti-oxidant and an amazing appetizer. A happy mellow drink that is just perfect to balance the fireworks of a rich, spicy meal, Sol Kadi is well-loved in the Konkan.

One more traditional fizzy drink which is a sure fire hit is the Limbu and Goti Soda. A drink made from fresh lemon , sweet sugar syrup , ice cold water and topped up with a local Soda. The soda itself is unique and comes in a dark green bottle with a Goti or a marble as its crown instead of the usual cap. The drink maker has to press the marble down with his palm or use a wooden pusher to release the gas which holding the Goti / marble at the bottle top and then pour the fizzy soda in to the glass. He then shakes the glass to make it more bubbly before handing it over to you with over flowing froth. Drink it an feel refreshed. A lot of childhood memories for me and my wife Kashmira are associated with this Limbu Soda Goti as this is a common drink across Goa . You can get them at stalls doting the numerous Temples in Goa. After the darshan come to this stall order a cool Limbu Soda Goti and drink to your hearts content.

Some more excotic summer coolers go by very “COOL” names . On a hot summer's day, a tall, frosty glass of Madurai’s famous Jigarthanda can really cool you off. Just look at that name, Jigarthanda or something that cools the heart. Made by blending milk, kadal paasi (edible sea algae) and nannari syrup and garnished with a dollop of ice cream, this is one delightful drink loved by all ages. Another cooler is the traditional Thandai during Holi. No one can stop with just one glass of Thandaai, a tantalizing version of milk energized with almonds and spices. Traditionally associated with festivals like Mahashivratri and Holi, this absolutely yummy drink is an excellent refresher, especially in the season of soaring temperatures.

If you like Coconut water , then you are sure to like the Neera or Taal Sherbet or Nongu . Made from Tadgola or  Taal  as known in Bengal and Nongu in Tamil Nadu, the palm fruit kernel is used to make this super simple summer drink that will wow you with its abundance of tender flavours. An incredibly tasty experience for a creation so simple, this is one seasonal cooler you simply should not miss.A drink which regulated and the vendor needs a license to sell the same as if fermented the same drink becomes an semi-alcoholic drink “Tadi” or “Toddy”. But in its natural form it is sweet as nectar and can refresh you in minutes of drinking the same. You come across small stalls across highways if your travel from Mumbai to Gujarat or even down south in Karnataka , Tamil Nadu and Kerala.

Some other unique Sherbets are the Zafrani Sherbet Absolutely rich and addictive, Zafrani sherbet is perfect for those sweltering summer days, those elaborate family functions and pretty much everything. A drink designed to pamper the senses and rejuvenate the spirit, the silky texture of Zafrani sherbet just melts in your mouth. When you treat yourself to a Zafrani, it treats you back!

Other like Elaneer (Tender Coconut) Milkshake is a supremely healthy tropical smoothie that will knock your socks off with its burst of luscious flavours on your very first sip. This mild creamy snow-white drink tastes absolutely perfect just on its own and has a recipe which is satisfyingly simple. Or try the the earthy, spicy and slightly tart Ragi Ambali is the perfect way to beat the heat sans the calories. Packed with umpteen health benefits, this traditional beverage from Karnataka tastes great and delivers an instant energy boost.

So next time when you are sapped , the sun is scorching over your head and beads of sweat are running down your body the best way to refresh yourself is to grab a glass of these Summer coolers and energize instantly.

So try them this summer and have Thanda Thanda Cool …… Summer

Just Walking Around

Crawford Market to Chor Bazaar ----Unique Bazaar’s of SoBo

When you travelled to SoBo or the erstwhile South Bombay and now known as South Mumbai a feeling of nostalgia sweeps over. The buildings in these areas are replete with distinct British Architecture and the bylanes so small and crowded that you are transported to a by gone era. Most of these buildings are classified as Class 1 Heritage Buildings like the Victoria Terminus (Chatrapatti Shivaji Terminus) with its classic dome and distinct pillars with figures of Lions representing the Colonial past. And that famous figurine a lady a top the main dome. The station building is designed in the High Victorian Gothic style of architecture. The building exhibits a fusion of influences from Victorian Italianate Gothic Revival architecture and classical Indian architecture. The skyline, turrets, pointed arches, and eccentric ground plan are close to classical Indian palace architecture. Same is the case with the BMC building right across.

 But some of the interesting places are just close by and a little walking around can land you in the shopper paradise of Crawford Market.

Founded in 1871, the market was initially known as 'Mahatma Jyotirao Phule Market'. It got the name 'Crawford Market' after city's Municipal Commissioner, Arthur Crawford. The construction of the market building was completed in 1869 and businesses commenced in 1871. At the time, the British would often send their domestic help to buy the freshest produce from the market. The British were also the first to start selling hordes of important foods in one single place. Therefore, if you are looking for some good deals on fruit and vegetables and some imported food, then, Crawford Market is the place to be.

Spread over a vast area of 72,000 sq. yards, Crawford Market is extremely famous for its architecture. The impressive frieze at the entrance of the market will astonish the tourists. The place is also designed in such a manner so that it receives ample sunlight during the day. One of the main features of this market is the Clock Tower, adorned with intricate Victorian carvings. Built in 1871, this market was designed and conceptualized by William Emerson. Another interesting fact is that the market first got electricity in 1882, and became the first market in India to receive electricity.

The market is one of the most popular shopping areas of the city. If one wants to savor how the local dwellers shop, then there is nothing better than heading out to Crawford Market, which is open on 6 days of the week. The Crawford Market offers an exciting shopping experience for those who love to splurge. One of the most vibrant markets in the city, a whole array of dazzling fruits, vegetables and poultry can be found here. The mix of the fragrances vegetables, combined with the aromas of the fresh cheese and homemade chocolate, make it an interesting visit for tourists.

This market is famous for all things from pins , to stationary , to party accessories to the crockeries and even artificial flowers used for decorations. Each lane has a distinct character. In the lane next to Sadanand Hotel you can find shops stocking gift items and accessories for parties be it birthday party or the newest trend of Baby Shower . Here you can get wholesellers selling toys to stationery items to soft toys. In accessories you can get party masks , crowns , Selfie nick-nacks like the goofy sunglasses , head gears, false moustache’s etc.

A near by lane stocks sling bags , gym bags , school bags , haversacks , laptop bags. Some specialize in purses , clutch’s , tote’s , sling’s , satchel’s, hobo’s and messenger bags. Close by you get a variety of home furnishing items like carpets , curtains , bed sheets , face towels etc. In another lane you can get artificial flowers of wide variety. Looking at them you can’t make out the difference that they are not real, only when touch them do you realize they are artificial. You can buy orchid’s , tulips, roses , carnations, jasmines and many more. You can also get artificial grass available in square or rectangular patches which can be laid on the ground to make an artificial turf. In the same lane you can get plastic pots for planting real plants. Also the you can get metallic cages , lanterns and other accessories which can be hung in your windows or balconies. Making your home look beautiful.

If you want to purchase some LED electric bulbs or those rice bulbs that twinkle in their bright colored hues’ you can walk down to Lohar chawl which is just few yards away.The Lohar Chawl is market to be to Lamp up your lighting game with some of the best picks.Lohar Chawl, is the most underrated wholesale market for lighting in the city. Do up your pad, office or that potential reading space in that little corner in your room. There are two kinds of people in the world – bright light lovers and low-light owls. If you fall in the latter category, this lamp is for you. The rope gives it a grungy, rough-around-the-edges look and the bulb provides the right amount of light needed to space out at night. The market is a great place to haggle. Before you could even start, the shopkeeper mentions that there’s always a 40 per cent discount on in the market.Then there is this cane lamp-cum-bookshelf and understood the meaning of love at first sight. Lightweight, easy to transport and durable – it can make you feel weak in the knees.Another trending lamp is the Floor Lamp -A tripod-style floor lamp, this one’s ideal for those who love the big movie-style lights. Ideal for creating that cosy corner with a bookshelf in tow. Mason Lamps -Take your relationship with mason jars to the next level with this colourful mason jar chandelier. Perfect for adding that pop of colour over your dining table or the staircase leading up to your room.Fairy Lights - Where do we even start with the blessing that fairy lights are for those who like to keep it simple and cheap? But durability is an issue with the ones you find at your local electrical shop. Lohar Chawl has quality fairy and LED lights, not the ones with flimsy wires, but the real deal.Dance Dance Lights - These lights will take you from ‘Let’s go out dancing tonight’ to ‘Let’s stay in and dance’ within seconds. They are awesome , totally tripped-out dance lights available starting at INR 1,000.

Bulbception -You can find Edison and Christopher Nolan’s love child in a shop close by. A bulb inside a bulb is pure genius in terms of design {the light fell beautifully} and that quirk factor that it comes with. Available at INR 1,500 per piece, you can mix up different colours and shapes and create something of your own.

Next on the list will be  the Bhuleshwar –Kalbadevi Markets . Things that you can buy from Bhuleshwar –Kalbadevi ,can fill everything from your wardrobe to kitchen. But a few things, of course, stand out.

Chudiyaan or Bangles .When you are in an area renowned for casting bangles in brass, copper, iron and, of course, glass and when those bangles have a global fan following you just cannot miss buying some of that stuff, can you? From your sweetheart  to your aunt, who doesn’t like some colourful bangles especially bought for them!

Sarees -The Bhuleshwar market offers a range of sarees to choose from five yards or nine yards, bright and light, fancy or simple. If you are in the saree phase (owing to constant exposure to Bollywood divas like DeepikaPadukone or Priyanka Chopra), Bhuleshwar saree market is the place to be.

 Flowers -The presence of a number of temples like Mumba Devi Temple and Swani Narayan Temple in the area boosted the demand for flowers to such an extent that they developed an entire lane for flowers. The fragrance makes PhoolGali (Flower Street) a favourite spot among the shoppers

Mirchi Gully -Known as Mumbais Kabuliwallah, the place offers a range of sweets, namkeens, after-meal digestives and other spices.

And then for all the antique and wooden furniture shopping you can visit the Chor Bazaar. ‘Chor Bazaar’, the famously called Thieves market close from Grant Road Station of South Mumbai which is famous for any type of second hand and also stolen products. To keep the product range simple, i must add anything means anything, from PIN to PIANO and much more than one expect. This bazaar has its own crowd who get attracted at its multi-lane flea like market. All types of people visit this market for their individual needs. It is now one of the famous attractions for Tourists. Specialty being as it is said that when you don’t get an old or outdated product in regular market, the final destination visit and checkout is the Chor Bazaar with an hope of getting it. Say it range of old historic items used to decorate home, iron products, mobiles, gadgets or some that looks hardly working any more are all on for sale at shops and footpath of all its lanes. Although the name is Chor Bazaar, but in reality not all goods sold here is stolen. Being cheap in cost has many other reasons like most stuff sold here is Second Hand (Used) and Special Friday markets for Duplicate products (Locally Called FIRST COPY) which looks exactly same like the original brand but at price half or much less than half the original brand product. And so is this ‘Cheap Stuff Market’ got so famous and crowded, Specially on Fridays between 4:30 Am to 7:00 am (The Special Night Markets of Chor Bazaar).

Today also it is said that its a combination of both stolen and second hand products which are sold openly here. Majority of people having owned shops and rented selling things here are Muslims, as the other locations are dominated with same community people. Such adjacent famous locations are Bhendi Bazaar, Mazjid Bunder, Pydhonie to list a few of them. One needs to be very smart when it comes to buying products here, be it some old Bollywood posters, a binoculars, gymnasium iron Dumbbells, multi coloured stones gem rings, or those old gramophones and their records and to list the latest mobile phones and much more which are all available here. The smartness to pick the correct working product at correct price as generally they cost every product rates 2 to 3 times and then bargain. Mind you their people skill in selling and checking your bargain skill are really good. Once you show the interest in any product in this bazaar and start the bargain you are targeted for sale, Try not to argue or get into fight with anyone in this market for any reason. If you like it bargain and take it or just say ‘Its OK’ or in Hindi ‘Nahi Chahiye’, I was just interested in knowing the cost.you will also find some real decently Organized shops inside with antiquities being sold, and trust me if you are one of those old stuff collectors of Old Indian Coins, Chor Bazaar is the best place in Mumbai.. Thursday late night OR say Friday Early morning Market, Timings (Between 4:00 to 7:00 in Morning) are special. But the day being Jumma (Friday) has 2 special markets inside the 3rd main Chor Bazaar lane and Wagdi ground. By 3:30 Am all sellers unload their electronic goods at these Wagdi ground inside busy lanes.

Friday special sale ground is what this One Night Electronic Market is named with, ‘Wagdi Bazaar’ is a small open space inside busy colony and lanes of Chor Bazaar. About few Hundred people can be seen at this limited capacity ground for Second Hand Electronic Products Sellers. It has a small Gate which gets closed just an hour before 4:30 Am when the market begins and as soon the vendors are ready with the unloaded trucks of electronic goods the gates are thrown open to Mumbai people.

Wagdi Bazaar attracts youth as major electronic high brands products from iPad to Drones and almost many / all others can be seen just thrown open on a small piece of plastic spread on floor of this Wagdi ground and people jumps in to check and get the cheapest deal . Bargaining is a must but a solid tip to remember is Do Not get into argument or word war here, You may find good people and few worst ( ‘Shana’ as Mumbai Slangs says), So better grab your deal and move out quietly. Then there is the Andheri Bazaar -- a market specialized in selling Shoes , Jeans, leather jackets , Hoodies & similar 1^st hand apparels and stuff. Many college going youths visit this market at this early hour odd timings to get great deals on all types of Branded shoes (Reebok, Nike and any other brand and costliest shoes) you say are available at as cheap as below Rs.1000.

So next time you are in a mood for shopping do try these crazy markets of South Mumbai. A total paisa vasool. But do Wear your  haggling skills on your sleeve before visiting these SoBo Bazaar’s.

Happy Haggling….

Just Walking Around

Kabootar Khana & The Wings of Peace

It was few days before Holi , I was returning home and alighted at one of  the most busiest station in Mumbai , “Dadar”. The sun had just set in the sky making the skyline a mix of red and orange as if someone up there was playing Holi with the sunbeams .It was a mesmerizing sight . As I made my way thorugh all teeming world of Dadar and its street vendors , right through the flower market , on to the road leading to Jain Temple filled with vendors selling headphones to mobile covers to fruit sellers selling Kiwi’s , Dragon fruits to plastic vendors selling mugs, buckets , containers big & small to vendors selling brass and steel items required for pooja’s and Hindu rituals. As I reached the end of the road to the main junction I was awestruck with an unusual sight. The sight of hundreds of pigeons taking off from the Dadar Kabutar Khana into the colored sky in a huge flock. The scene looked as if frames were unraveled in slow motion in front of my eyes . It was a great feeling standing there in the middle of the busy traffic junction , surrounded by the noise and chaos around and still be transported to a different world all together right there at the Dadar Kabutar Khana.

The Dadar Kabutar Khana , has been around since 1933, i.e about 82 years now when this structure was built. About 3000 to 4000 pigeons are fed with about 1500 to 1700 Kilogram of grains as regular diet like Chana (Roasted Chickpea), Jowar (Sorghum, Durra, Milo), Bajara (Maize), Moong etc. Located exactly near wholesale and retail markets adjacent to Dadar Railway station in West on Javale road, This Kabutar khaana (Also Refered as “Kabootarkhana”) is considered a holy peaceful place as a location as is surrounded by a Shantinath Jain temple, Hindu god Hanuman temple, and a Mosque. It has been listed as a Grade 2 heritage structure of Mumbai giving importance to the structure, makings and materials inside like cast iron grill, A water fountain which is not operational as of now and the old looking granary.

Its an iconic old structure which brings smile on senior citizens wrinkled faces, now in their 50’s, 60’s and above who had seen the then looking Dadar with slow moving life. Not just them, but the current generation youth  and even kids enjoy feeding those birdies inside. “Dadar Kabutarkhana Trust” takes care of this heritage structure by collecting funds from near by shops since last 5 to 7 decades famously called ‘Dadar Market’. Veterinarians from famous Bombay vets college and BSPCA visit kabutar khana to vaccinate and give required dose of vitamins so that the flocking pigeons keep fit, immunized and be away from diseases which can affect the locals and markets around this structure. More over this location was one of the choice of shooting by Bollywood directors.Remember that famous shoot out scene in Parinda in which a sharpshooter from the mafia don Anna’s gang , sinisterly played by Nana Patekar shoots down the honest and upright cop played by Anupam Kher and Anil Kapoor the rebel rushing toward his best friend trying his best to save him but losing the battle of time . Finally the cop breathing his last in his friends arms. What an explosive scene from an iconic movie at an iconic location.

Mumbai is home to lakhs of pigeons at its 200 odd Kabutar khana. The history of kabutar khanas dates back to the Mughal era,when Emperor Akbar introduced pigeon post. The kabutar khana situated next to the General Post Office (GPO) at Fort dates back to to the 18th century.

The other famous one are located at Laminghton Road near Novelty Cinema , one across Navjeevan Society at Grant Road , then there’s the oldest one across Khar station and even one in the high society area of Lokhandwala . Most of these Kabutar khana’s have always been patronized by the Jain community feeding them and their trusts taking care of the sick birds during monsoon providing them with medicines and special supplements. At these kabutat khana’s you can see grain vendors with sacks of Bengal gram or Channa , jowar  and corn who do brisk business throughout the day and even more on special festive occasion when the Gujarati / Jain community people turn up in large numbers to feed these birds. As per Hindu scripture feeding pigeons is as holy as feeding a Brahmin. At these Kabutarkhanas you can see senior citizens , women with small children who run enthusiastically across the street to sprinkle food at the gurgling, flapping birds; traders and shopkeepers with businesses in the area who stop by as part of their daily routine, having developed a neat, practiced right-arm, medium slow pace action.

Around 2009 Mumbai newspapers were splashed with the news of freak accident at the Grant Road kabutar khana. A Junior Engineer Eknath Jondhale, 35, who worked in the BMC's disaster management control room died in a freak accident on June 30. He was riding his two-wheeler when a flock of pigeons from the Grant Road kabutar khana flew in his direction. One of the birds hit him and he lost his balance. As his bike hit the median, Jondhale was thrown on to the road and was run down by a car. 

The then Municipal Law committee chairman Makrand Narvekar, moved the notice of motion for permanent removal of all kaburtar khanas in Mumbai. He said that in an increasingly congested city, the pigeon feeding centers were a nuisance to local residents and a health hazard.Overnight the Kabutar khana’s at Minerva-Novelty Cinema and across Navjeen Society were demolished. There were voices in support and against this ban. Some of the local resident organizations were of the view that these piegons brought with them diseases especially respiratory issues due to the dust and feathers that blew in the air in the locality when they flew. But there was a backlash from animal lovers and NGO’s against cruelty to animals. With concentrated efforts to educate the Municipality and general public at large , they have stalled the total ban and demolishing of these iconic structures which is part of the character of the city of Mumbai. Going to the extent that now the Mumbai Municipality is planning of overhaul of few selected Kabutra khana to give them a face lift . The Dadar and GPO kabutar khana will be the first to receive these financial aid of 2 Crores.

BMC has raised funds and at this stage are ready to get final approval from heritage committee to begin the work. The new looks of this place will be clean and beautiful, keeping the heritage important old things which are used inside like water fountain, cast iron grills intact. The trigger point of this renovation is the traffic at this circle junction, It will further give easy movements for buses, taxis and will help pedestrians too for ease in crossing. It will also attract more tourist to visit this place and hope BMC and other committee has plans to take care of tourism industry and the upcoming movements which can further be a problem next after face lift.

Beautification steps be taken where this Pigeon house will be illuminated at night to be seen by passersby and those travelling via buses and taxi. Hope the lightning’s will not disturb the birds inside the structure. The old water fountain will be seen operational and for cleanliness and hygiene purpose water pipes will be installed with all new flooring properly planned that will take care of cleaning the bird droppings etc. It is also proposed to reduce the circle structure by a meter which will help the vehicles like buses turn with ease and move faster. The granary will be seen shifted inside the structure due to cut of a meter in new plans. The work will begin post rainy season and will take about 8 to 10 months more.

The pigeons especially the Dove’s have always been a symbol of peace. Standing there just near Dadar station, pigeons, flapping around the high iron fences of an old three-cornered enclosure,  which block out the sun. The air is thick with feathers and the sweetness of the grains stored. Standing there you are engulfed by a state of peace and tranquility.

Looking at those birds fly un-inhibited I got a feeling that the spirit of freedom and independence is hopefully still alive and kicking  and in sync with winds of change blowing across India.