Desi Fizz….
Growing up as kids the best
attraction during birthday parties was the cold glass of fizzy drinks like
Goldspot or Thums Up. Till date we are habituated to drinking these carbonated
drinks during dinners or at home for the fizz and most often than not to
relieve us of the bloated feeling we get after a heavy meal.But sometimes you
can try some offbeat drinks which not only give the end result but are great in
taste too.
What do think when you hear the
word ‘GOA”….Beach , Beer , Babes ..Fun ..Frolic but did you notices those small
shack like shops dotting the beaches or the pathway toward the famous temples
like Mangueshi or Shanta Durga Temple. On any given scorching day you will find
some cold drink –beverage shop for the average teetooler like selling those
cool cool drink made from the odd looking green bottles. If you keen observe
these bottles they are deep biottle green with a contorted neck capped with a
you guessed it right a marble or a Goti in local Konkani / Marathi language.
Ask the fellow selling them to make you a drink and like an expert bartender ,
he will mix a little sugar solution from his earthen matka / steel drum ,with
some jaljira masala , squeeze a juicy lemon into the galss and then finally top
it up with the bubbly soda from the green bottle. The marble will be depressed
using a mini wooden mallet and the soda flowing out with the gas holding the
marble to the bottle mouth with a squeaking sound….chooooiiiii. This is
expertly mixed in the glass and served with ice. Drink it to quench your thirst
and feel releaved from the heat and humidity of Goa. This local fizzy drink is
local to Konkan and some parts of Norther India where it is known as “Banta”
Banta also
known as Fotash Jawl in Bengali, Goli Soda (Goli = spherical object
in Hindi) or Goti Soda (Goti = marble in Hindi) is a colloquial term for
a carbonated lemon or orange-flavoured soft drink popular
in India. Though the origin of its name is from Punjabi word for marble
(banta), Banta has been sold since the late 19th century,long before popular
carbonated drinks arrived. The drink is often sold mixed with lemon juice,
crushed ice, chaat masala and kala namak (black salt) as a
carbonated variant of popular lemonades shikanjvi or jal-jeera.It
is available at street-sellers known as bantawallahs.
And if you are in and around Vadodara you can
always go to the local Soda Shop . You can identify the small shop which is always surrounded by a crowd
of about 30 people.It consists of two soda dispensers and several employees. On
the counter will be a wooden box sectioned into a few dozen compartments, each
with a plastic cup of soda - sort of an assembly line, allowing the staff to
handle many orders at once. Several plastic bottles sit on one end of the
counter. fashioned into squeeze bottles, some will be filled with fresh lemon juice
and plain or flavored syrups. There will be canisters with spices and rock
salt. A couple of employees fill the cups with soda water and placed them in
the compartments for a third employee — the flavor man — to finish with syrups
and spices. You will be amazed at how quickly and gracefully they move, like
dancers, effortlessly squeezing fresh lemon juice, squirting in syrups and mixing in
condiments, handing the finished sodas to customers. I remember the first time
I tried a nimbu soda. The first sip flooded my mouth with
fresh lemon and spices that I'd never expected in a cup of soda: chili pepper,
cumin, ginger, black salt. Sweet, salty, savory and a bit funky all at once.
This was not just soda. This was masala soda, the single most flavorful sip of
my entire trip, and I needed more.
The flavor I tried was the aerated cousin of nimbu pani, a sweet and salty lemonade or limeade
that many Indians drink to stay hydrated during hot summers. But there's a
myriad other flavors. The masala could contain as little as white salt, black
salt and cumin, or an endless list of spices including amchoor (dried, powdered sour mango), black pepper, ginger, chili pepper
(dried or fresh), turmeric, asafoetida, mint, even anar dana (dried pomegranate seed powder). A popular
flavor in Mumbai and the state of Gujarat is jal jeera, a
spice mix with roasted cumin that's otherwise used for another traditional
summer drink of the same name — jal jeera literally
translates to cumin water. The other most important ingredient of this masala
is the kala namak, or blac black salt.
It's a rock salt containing sulfur, which lends a pungent, almost eggy
smell to the drink. Carbonated water gives the drink
effervescence, which can be further enhanced with a simple syrup and nimbu (meaning lemon or lime) juice or a fruit flavored drink called
sherbet. Sometimes its even served with commercial sodas, like Thumbs Up (an
Indian cola) or Sprite. But the best combination is when had with pure soda .A
drink with a punch and bubbly but with out the side effect effects of an
alchoholic drink…
When down south in Chennai, a mysterious drink with a hint of
dark fruityness flourishes in refrigerators all over the Tamil Land. Its
placebo effect in case of an upset stomach is legendary. Locals will tell you
that it is the one thing you should drink after a kari dosa or other fiery eats
from the Chennai’s streets. So when crates of Kalimark’s Bovonto are unloaded
from the local old cycletrailer at small tea stalls , there is a happy clamour.
“Bovonto is timeless,” says owner of Zam
Zam Tea Shop, receiving three crates of south India’s oldest homegrown soft
drink. Forty-seven-year-old Mani, one of over two dozen Kalimark distributors
in town, supplies to 60 shops every morning before popping open a bottle of
grapey goodness for himself. I don’t think Bovonto
will ever go out of business. For a generation of Tamils, soft
drink is “colour” and colour is the neon orange pop of Torino or the caramel
tint of Bovonto. A true-blue Indian soda pop that refused to cede the
battleground to multinational colas, Bovonto is a formulation of the
century-old Kali Aerated Water Works. Worth over Rs 100 crore, it continues to
expand its footprint in south India.
Every year, the cola wars pit blue against red, Pepsi against
Coke, 7Up against Dew as the multinationals stake out
their territories across India. But, like the last outpost of Gaul defiance against the Romans, homegrown sodas
survive in many parts of India — their fabled
histories reminders of older times, their quirky flavours
a part of many memories. In 1977, as Coca-Cola was beating a retreat from India
under the provisions of the
Foreign Exchange
Regulation Act, Torino, an orange soda with a prodigious use of sugar, entered
the market in south India. In
no time, they had captured 90 per cent of Karnataka’s
orange soda market,
says Pankaj Lakhani, the second-generation owner
and MD of Bangalore Soft Drinks
runs the business now.
Torino has since been re-launched in PET
For homegrown soft drinks, trouble began to bubble over with the
consolidation in the Indian carbonated beverage
industry in 1993. Coca-Cola staged a comeback, acquiring
Parle’s classic Indian sodas — Thums Up, Limca, Citra and Gold Spot — and small local brands began a slide to obsolescene. PepsiCo
picked up Duke’s stable of masala sodas and Campa-Cola,
a relic of socialist India, fizzled out.
A few unlikely survivors of the cola wars are now riding a wave
of nostalgia and slaking the thirst of middle India.
Torino, Bovonto, Sosyo and other sodas today cater
largely to a niche outside the big cities that has tended to slip through the cracks of multinational brands. Even if they haven’t been as
fortunate, other brands
continue to be a part
of the lore of the cities they sprung up in. Like Delhi’s banta. A lemon soda packed in quaint Codd botttles, and spiked with a
kick of kala namak,
they are sold in carts across the city. Pandit Ved Prakash Lemon
Wale, a shop in Chandni Chowk, has been selling the
lemony drink for “at least 150 years” now. But local
suppliers say the drink has lost its edge to bigger brands.
Of the triumvirate of raspberry sodas —Duke’s, Roger’s and
Pallonji — of the Parsi
community in Mumbai for
over a century, only one remains. PV Solanki has been bottling Pallonji, a drink with a 149-year-old legacy, since
1979. He can not take on big
brands, and if they flexed their
muscles, there is no way he
would be able to
survive. So Pallonji’s decided to make
their own market, as Solanki. Instead of servicing Mumbai,
Pallonji is distributed within a 100-km radius of its only bottling plant in the suburb of Mankhurd. Within city limits, you can find it at
Irani stores and select
petrol pumps if you are lucky. With a turnover of Rs 1.45 crore,
Pallonji employs all of 40 people and Solanki says the
business continues to be profitable
A trip to Surat in Gujarat is incomplete without a glug of
Sosyo, a local pre- Independence-era soft drink that was
an offshoot of the Swadeshi movement. Launched
in 1923 by Hajoori & Sons in Zampabazaar, Sosyo’s theme was “Apna
desh apna drink”
and its USP an alcohol-like flavour. The manufacturers recently repackaged
and re-launched the product to survive competition, but there was a time when Sosyo was the only drink Surtis ever needed. It
combined the flavours of
apple and grape to
position itself as an alternative to wine in a dry state, an afterdinner digestive and a refreshing aerated beverage.
Indians love their masala sodas so much, that even global and regional companies are now bottling them. In 2012, Coca Cola relaunched a
bottled masala cola called RimZim that they bought in 1994, and
PepsiCo India released 7up Nimbooz Masala Soda.
But these commercial sodas lack customization and the atmosphere of a
soda shop, which is a big part of the masala soda experience. As I learned in
Vadodara, these Shops are also social
hubs, especially in dry states like Gujarat that lack bars. It's a meeting
place where people gather to sip masala soda and talk with their friends.
I tasted one my favorite masala soda from one such
street vendor in Mumbai. It was made from kokum (an Indian mangosteen), which
is not available commercially. For 20 rupees , I sipped my sweet, sour and
mildly savory soda as I watched small groups of friends
come and go, drinking their sodas and chatting. The taste and memory have lingered on till date.
And to let you into
a family secret . A standing
joke in our extended family is that whenever we go out for a family dinner, the bill is never requested till my wifey
Kashmira asks for a Fresh Lime Soda – sweet and salted. That is the sign that the family dinner
has come to a close much like a closing ceremony of a super special event. After a lot of leg pulling and laughing at her expense ,everyone on the dinner table has a sip of
that cool drink .Finally with a large burp of satisfaction over the food we ate , there is a smile on our
lips and fond memories of time well spent….
So Enjoy these Desi Fizzy
drinks till they are still around fighting the large
MNC’s . More power to these real foot soldiers of the Make In India
campaign….