Saturday, November 5, 2016

Just Walking Around


Diwali@Ponda , Goa

This year we as a family decided to celebrate Diwali in Ponda a prominent city in North Goa well known for its temples, rich cultural heritage and industries large and small and the fastest growing town in Goa.This city has still preserved its small town attitude while keeping up with other prosperous towns like Madgaon , Vasco or the state capital of Panji.

The fact that we have a home their now and the kids having a sizable Diwali vacation helped us plan our visit well in advance. Also the constant praise of the uniqueness of Diwali celebrations in Goa by my brother-in-law Jagdish Katkar fortified our stand.

In Mumbai we usually start the celebrations on Narak Chaturdashi by getting up real early , taking that Abhyang Snan with oil and utane ,bursting few fire crackers and followed by the faral eating session .
But in Ponda the celebrations starts the night before Narak Chaturdashi with Narkasur Processions and Competitions.

There are many legends related to the festival of Diwali in India. However in Goa the Narkasur legend of Diwali is well known and is the reason for the Diwali celebrations. Diwali in Goa is marked by Narka chaturdashi, in which huge effigies of the demon Narkasur are built and then burnt.

According to the legend of Narkasur it is known that in the ancient times, the beautiful land of Goi or Gomantak was ruled by the demon king Narkasur. Narkasura had obtained a lot of powers which made him quite arrogant and he began to spread terror, cause destruction and torture people wherever he went. He also used to kidnap young beautiful girls and this caused great unhappiness among the people of the world.

The people of Goa thus prayed and the gods asked Lord Krishna for help. A great battle was fought between Narkasur and Lord Krishna in which Lord Krishna shot his famous Sudharshan Chakra, cut off the evil head of the Narkasur and slit his tongue. Thus the evil demon who ruled Goa met his end in the wee hours of the morning and Lord Krishna smeared demon's blood on his forehead as a symbol of victory.

To wash away the blood of Narkasur, Lord Krishna was bathed and massaged with scented oils and thus the custom of early morning bathing with oil is being carried out. Also the young girls held captive by Narkasur were released and they lit lamps in their houses to mark the end of darkness and the beginning of light in Goa. This is also a reminder that good can defeat evil.

In Goa the people make huge effigies which are filled with grass, waste paper and crackers. A lot of money is sometimes spent on making these effigies look menacing and animated so as to move his different body parts. Special effects are given by way bellowing smoke from Narkasur’s mouth .Fire throwers create more magical effect and all this procession is well supported by dhol and tasha bands. Narkasura competitions are held at prominent areas of the town and give away cash prizes for the best made one. The effigy of Narkasur is then taken in a procession and later burnt at dawn amidst a lot of firework display to begin the festival of Diwali.

We were fortunate enough to watch such a show at the Ponda Upper Bazar Chowk competition area. The procession began with a huge effigy of the Narkasur from Bandora –Mahalaxmi mandal. Their effigy was really menacing , with its huge figure , big head , moving arms and flicking blood soaked red tongue.The tempo pulling the carriage had Lord Krishna seated on a dummy Horse Rath. The procession was lead by their band and fire throwers mesmerizing the crowd. As they reached the end pint , the actor playing the part of Lord Krishna shot an arrow which was guided on wires and perfectly pierced Narkasur’s neck and his head was decapitated. Huge roar of applause went up from the crowd . This was followed by few more effigies from other neighboring areas . The crowds egging the processions , clapping and hooting and making big sounds. Last of the effigies went by at 1.30 am and the funny part was it was beheaded by an actor playing the part of Radha instead of Lord Krishna who was busy dancing in the procession.A big round of cheers went up as the demon king was beheaded by Radha. All these effigies were then taken around the small town of Ponda in mini trucks and tempos and burnt at their respective mandals at 4 am in the morning.

We went home sleepy eyed to catch up on a few winks before getting up on the 1st day of Diwali.
The next day just after performing Laxmi Pujan at home, we decided to go to the Mahalaxmi Temple at Bandora.As part of the festivities the temple trust had organized Devi’s palkhi. A replica of the goddess Mahalaxmi bedecked with gold was installed in a palkhi or palanquin. The main priests and few of the devotees lifted the palanquin on their shoulders and took the goddess around the temple complex with 4 halts in 4 main directions. This round about was accompanied by chants of special aarti’s and blowing of the conch. The atmosphere was filled with a vibe which resonated across the temple complex and also in our hearts.

As we were on vacation it was decided we try out the local restaurant’s. We tried the Sea food specialist restaurant “Hotel Kinara” and were pleasantly surprised with the taste and variety of fish and chicken on the menu. Try their fish thali with Mackarel (Bangda) or Surmai fry , machhi kadi , sol kadi and rice with chappati’s which can be ordered extra. The other specialty is their mutton sukha or chicken sukha or the exotic fish like Mori or Tisrya (Shell fish) apart from the usual golden fry prawns or the Bombil (Bombay duck) and Mandeli (gold fish ) or Velya (anchovies) . One more trademark dish is the Chicken Dry Fry , which boneless chicken marinated in red chilly , haldi power and salt mix and deep fried with rava as binder.This crispy and yummy dish is a hit with the locals and demand is high.

Just below “Kinara” is the oldest and well know ice cream parlor “Kalpana Ice Cream” . No dinner / lunch can be complete without a visit to this small but interesting ice cream parlor. With options like natural ice creams – Sitaphal , Anjir , Mango , Strawberry ,Musk melon or try their Sundaes with 3 scoops of ice creams topped with cherry and jelly or special ice creams like Gad-Bad ice cream which is combination of strawberry , vanilla , chocolate ice cream , rose syrup / chocolate syrup and topped with jelly and dry fruits – black raisins , cashew nut , anjir , pista and badam. Savor  these lovely desserts and have the time of your life.


We returned home to Mumbai with loads of sweet memories of the time spent with family and dear ones. A really memorable Diwali @ Ponda , Goa…


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