Kuch
Meetha Ho Jaaye……
With the just concluded Raksha
Bandhan one of the very first festivals in the festive month of Shravan or
Sawan and many more lined up throughout this month , we get eat a lot of sweets
/ mithai as part of traditional way to sweeten our mouth or as we say Muh
Meetha To Karlo. In Western part of India there have been traditional sweets
earmareked for such special festivals . Like the Maharashtrian Narli Vadi –
made of coconut , sugar and fortified with Kesar and crushed Pista. This delicacy is best bought from typical
Maharashtrian Sweet MeatShops like Panshkar’s of Mumbai or Chital’e of Pune.
This yellow square barfi type mithai is yummy and melts in your mouth with every
bite. At Panshikar’s in Girgaon or Dadar , people queue from early morning to
pick this wadi and going by the demand the line stretches nearly for 100 -200
mts in the bylane next to the Panshikar’s at Dadar in the heart of Mumbai.
Panshikar’s have been in this sweets business from a century with the 4th
generation holding the fort now at their various shops across mostly the
Marathi dominated areas of Mumbai , Thane and Kalyan.
Another sweet that is
similarly associated with Raksha Bandhan od Teej festival as celebrated in the
Northern parts of India is the Gewar from Rajasthan. The sweet itself is unique
in its looks , a spindly disc shaped mithal with perforated layers and a hole
in the centre all coming together to give your that mouth watering taste. It
can be eaten in its regular form or served with chilled Rabdi making it more
rich and heavenly.
One thing I have been doing
over the last 13 years of my marriage is that whenever I go outstation on my Sales trips I
bring back the local sweet / mithai from that city or state so as to enjoy the
sweet taste of Indi with my family. And the idea was given to me by my sweet heart
Wifey Kashmira. Even if the schedule is tight during such Sales visit I make it
a point to ask the locals be it the Hotel Front desk person or the driver of the car hired for local use
to point me in the direction of the best sweet shop in town to pick their local
sweet. So when I am in Bangalore , I will make it a point to visit the nearest
Nandini Sweet shop to pick the Mysore Pak . History has it Mysore pak was
first prepared in the kitchens of the Mysore
Palace during
the regime of Krishna Raja Wadiyar
IV,
by a palace cook named Kakasura Madappa. Madappa made a concoction of gram
flour, ghee and sugar. When asked its name, Madappa had nothing in mind, simply
called it the 'Mysuru pak'. Pak (or paka, more precisely) in Kannada means
sweet. It is traditionally served in weddings and other festivals of southern
India, and is very popular in baby showers as well. Paaka shastra (short paka)
in Kannada means 'cooking procedure' or 'cooking techniques'. Also paka in
Kannada refers to sticky sugar syrup obtained by simmering sugar with equal
amount of water; specifically for Mysore Pak, the simple syrup is heated to the soft ball stage. The syrup is flavored with
various spice essences like cardamom, rose, honey etc. Paka syrup
preparation is a skilled art mastered by few cooks, some of whom keep their
methods secret.
Same is the case when I am in Chennai. If it’s a day
trip and I don’t find time to shop for any sweets I will surely pick up the
Ghee wala Mysore Pak at Sri Krishna Sweets at the Chennai Airport. It's not unusual for passengers on
flights out of Chennai to make a short stop at the airport
counter of Sri
Krishna Sweets
This store's
'Mysurpa' has developed a loyal legion of fans including me & my family and
all those well beyond the Vindhyas. Most 'dessertarians' or sweet lovers find
the melt-in-your-mouth texture of this sweet quite
irresistible.
The texture of the traditional 'porous' Mysore Pak is meant
to be slightly hard on the outside and yet 'crumbly' when you bite into it. A
contrast from the soft and 'melty' texture that has been made popular by Shri Krishna Sweets. Another popular
sweet shop in Chennai - Grand
Sweets, veers towards the
traditional Mysore Pak. These two styles have virtually split the Mysore Pak
fans into two camps. It's not just the texture, some of Chennai's sweet shops
have crafted their own versions from a Horlicks Mysore Pak to a Cashew Mysore
Pak that traditionalists in Mysore might frown upon.
I have even picked up the best ever pedhas, those brown
colored sweet round balls made of pure mava during my rail journeys to reach
clients like IOCL refinery in the holy
place of from Mathura. They say if you are in Mathura and you have not visited
Krishna Janma bhoomi and taste the Mathura’s famous pedh to Mathura ake kya
kiya.
There are numerous sweet shops across Mathura who sell these
Pede but the most famous ones are from Brijwasi Sweets and Radhika Sweets . the
recipe of this sweet is really simple as its basic ingredients is cows or
buffaloes milk heated with sugar for several hour to make it thick . In this process
ghee is added frequently so that the milk does not burn and turns into khoya or
mawa. The khoya is then fried by frequently adding ghee .Frying khoya makes these
peda’s it last long.
Mathura peda is so famous in India that the term is often
used in local saying like “Mathura ka peda aur Chhattisgarh ka
kheda means "(famous are) the peda sweet of Mathura and
hemlet in Chhattisgarh. Mathura acts as a brand name for peda sweet.
Another
famous sweet quite close to my heart for its wonderful texture and taste is the
Agra ka Petha. This sweet is a translucent soft candy from specifically from Agra
in North India.
Usually rectangular or cylindrical, it is made from the measly white gourd or the safed dhoodhi or ash gourd vegetable
(also known as winter melon or white pumpkin, or simply petha in
Hindi and Urdu). The Petha is said to have originated in the kitchens of Mughal
Emperor Shah Jahan.Petha manufactured in Agra is covered by
a Geographical Indication label to certify their origin. The best
petha is found at Panchi Petha Store in Sadar Bazaar. The real house of the
original petha , I had asked a local auto rickshaw driver on one such visit on
which is the original one and he obliged me by saying “ Bhai agar alsi petha
khana hai to Panchi Petha khana par Sardar Bazaar wala Panchi petha se hi lene
, baki sab naki hai..” I asked him how do I know all other shops which are
going by the same name of Panchi Petha are nakli . He wisphered to me in a
conspiratory tone and said please check the sign boards of these other panchi
Petha there will always be some addition , I looked to one which was right in
friont of me it had the name Panch Petha written in Bold letter alright but just
besides was written “ Pure” in thin black letters” same was the case with some
other shops down the lane. I asked this autowala to takle me to Sadar bazaar.
Again I checked the sign board it said “ Panch Petha" no prefix no suffix ,
home of the asli wala Petha.
The moment I entered the shop
, I could understand the appeal petha hold for people. Rows and rows of inviting
syrupy , perfectly arranged colorful chunks of the soft translucent sweet
greeted me. A giant board inside proclaimed the nearl;y 20 varieties of this
sweet. The counter staff offered me several variety from Angoori to Kesar to
Rose flavoured. I was totally confused the understanding staff recommended I buy
the traditional white and dry petha and the cylindrical Keshar one and for its
mouth watering flacour the small round angoori ones. I was satisfied. When
asked about its history the staff person pointed to the picture frame behind
the cash counter of Late Seth Pancham Lal Goyal fondly called Panchhi. He
started with one store and now this 100 year old business has around 7 branches
in Agra alone. It has now started branches in Delhi , Ghaziabad and Lucknow. Keeping
up with the changing demands and tastes of consumers ,Panchhi Petha aims to
create newer types of pethas to keep the interest alive. Recently they have
introduce a sugar free variety that allows even the diabetics to enjoy it too.
Most of us eat sweets as Prasad
or an after dinner dessert but Kolkata must be the only place in India no no I guess
the whole wide world , where you will find people scurrying across to the
nearest sweet shop at any time of the day to eat sweet just like that. Be it in
the morning as breakfast or after a heavy lunch or dinner as dessert. So when
in Kolkata head to K C Das on Esplanade East .founded by Nobin Chandra Das . It
was a humble beginning in a tiny obscure corner in Bagbazaar set up as a sweet
shop in 1866. But he did not want to be known as any other Halwai or Mithai
wala. The passion to create something new soothing unique was overpowering. He
wanted to create a very original sweet which will be lovedf by the Bengali palate.An
ultimate delicacy.After months of hardwork he came up with small balls of cottage
cheese and boiled them in hot sugar syrup. The result was succulent , spongy,
juicy sweet with a unique & distinct taste. Nobin Das christened them the “Rossogolla”
and a legend was born. Eat it as syrupy sweet or squeeze the syrup out and bite
into this melt in your mouth Rossogolla.But the story doesn’t end at Rossogolla
,enter their shop and your will be lost in the sweets they produce, be it the
classic Bengali Sandesh or the Cham Cham or the peda like soft Khirkadam or the
Malai Sandwich like Rossomadhuri Channar Toast or the Khirmohan. Even the aam
dahi has been transformed by the Bengali into the heavenly Misthi Doi chilled
and served in small kulhads. Eat away standing there at the shop or at the well
placed chairs in the corner of the shop. Try each one and smack your lips and
lick your fingers.
So every time I come back from
one of my business trips , my kids eagerly await those mithai boxes filled with
the heavenly sweets and we all enjoy tasting them after a good family dinner.
And I would like to thank my wifey for this great habit she has instilled into
me of picking up the best of sweets from every part of India.
So to end on a sweet note ,I
would say lets discover India from its sweets and forget the bitterness in our otherwise mundane
life.
To
Kuch Mitha Ho Jaye……
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