Just Walking Around

Mahim Cha Urs…

I have been staying in Matunga for now almost 40 years . Growing up soaking its traditions , cultures and all its vibrant atmosphere. Knowing most of its nuances like the back of by hand and some I am still discovering. Like wise the missus has grown up in the neighbouring and equally famous locality of Mahim . With its cross cultural ethos and  cauldron  of people’s mixture right from traditional Maharashtrians  , to Goan Christians to Saraswat Brahmins to native Kolis and Muslims . Each with their own unique life style contributing to the vibrant and effervescent environment.

One highlight that truly defines Mahim and sets it apart from the rest of Mumbai is the local patron saint Makdoom Ali Mahimi and his Dargah . A place of faith and reverence among all religions . A pillar of strength to the downtrodden , the poor and the real Aam Aadmi . The ones who believe in truth and hard work and go about their routine with a sense of responsibility and duty towards their families. Believing in the spiritual saying "Karmanye Vadhikaraste, Ma phaleshou kada chana, Ma Karma Phala Hetur Bhurmatey Sangostva Akarmani" ….., where Arjuna was not willing to fight the Epic war of Mahabhaarat and Krishna explains to him to perform his duties. , You have a right to perform your prescribed duty, but you are not entitled to the fruits of action. Never consider yourself to be the cause of the results of your activities, and never be attached to not doing your duty

Going back into History of Makdoom Ali Mahimi , was Sufi Saint, who is said to have lived between 1372 to 1431 AD, had followers from all faiths. He is one of the first saints to have written a commentary on Quran. Mahimi was the first Indian scholar to write an exegesis on the  Quran, which gained critical acclimation from numerous Islamic scholars including Shah Waliullah Dehlavi. Authoring more than 100 books but we only know name of 21 books from which only 10 books are available in different libraries in India, he was given the moniker Qutub-e -Kokan (Kokan's Pole Star). He was the first commentator of the Holy Quran in India . His commentary is known throughout the World and is called "Tafsirur Rahman." It is Unique among all the commentary of QURAN known to Scholars. Mahimi is revered by both the Muslims and Hindus, all Muslim sects hold him in high esteem. After his death in 1431, he was buried in Mahim. The site later became a Dargah (shrine) for devotees.

Every year there is the annual ten-day Urs festival celebrated on the 13th day of Shawwal as per the Muslim calendar, millions of devotees visit his dargah. Changing times haven’t affected the enthusiasm with which the ten day-long Mahim fair is being held every year. Held in the honour of the Sufi saint, Makhdoom Ali Mahimi (1372-1431) the Mahim fair at the dusty Mahim beach is full of people on giant wheels, toy trains and enjoying gravity-defying stunts in the ‘Maut Ka Kuan’.

The qawwali tradition is being celebrated by the locals, too. “Hindi songs are not sung because they can get boisterous. Each singer comes and gives their nazariayana (respect) to the God and Baba. They all speak about how different religion say the same thing.Listening to them is like paying your respects to Baba. You remember him and his teachings..

The cops go easy even if the qawwalis go on till late into the night. The Mahim Fair is the only time when the police participate in an official capacity apart from providing security cover. It is a policeman who has the honour of applying sandalwood paste on the saint’s grave, and offering it a chadar. There are three different versions of the story behind the involvement of the police. It is said a sepoy served water to the saint while he was dying. That is why the police have been putting the first sandal and the chadar on him.

According to another version, Baba was very close to the investigative arm of the police. He helped them crack a case and, out of respect, an assistant sub inspector offers the first sandalwood and chadar. Some others say in 1891-92, the city of Mumbai witnessed a brutal riot. So, the then police commissioner began offering the first sandal as a call for communal harmony.

It takes seven hours for the sandal to reach the police station from the Dargah in the midst of the police band and other bands. People also arrange for community eating. Mouth watering rice mutton curry free to whoever comes, to the Dargah nearly 600 people are fed daily.

During the Urs the street leading to the Dargah is full of festivity. There are street vendors selling toys for the kids accompanying their parent to this holy place of worship.

This year we too ventured out to soak in the festivity. While walking from the lane starting near Mahim’s famous Falooda maker Baba Falooda , you are awestruck with the beehive of activities and the sparkling lights which light  this lane. We picked up some toys for little Bhakti and then walked along the lane checking out the wares sold by the street sellers. You have the bagand purse wallah selling ladies clutches , hobos and shoulder bags in different sizes and colors tempting with their economical prices. Some stalls sell the anodized earrings and brightly coloured braclets . But the stalls that catch your eye are the numerous food stalls lined up on both sides of this lane. The cooks bent over the hot stove churning out delicacies of Tandoori Chicken , Murg Pahadi Kebabs , Sheekh Kebabs ,Mutton Korma to be devoured with the soft and fluffy Roomali rotis. Then there is the mouth watering and spicy Dum Biryani’s cooked to perfection in huge Handi’s and served with the deft scoop of the hand with the right mix of masala , rice and the succulent meat. The food from the stalls giving you a completely different gastronomical experience.

If you are the one with the sweet tooth head to the numerous sweetmeat stalls . Here you will see huge and deep kadhai’s boiling over with oil in which the biggest ever puri is deep fried to the perfect golden brown, and what is it served with the special Ghee laden orange colored Sheera sprinkled with badam , pista Cashew and rasins giving it an exceptional taste. The famous stalls for sweets are from Sulieman Usman selling sweet Jalebi’s , various halwa’s and their famous Aflatoon and calorie heavy brown colored halwa. Then there is the Son Halwa from Joshi Budda Kaka Mithawala with a legacy of nearly 100 years.

After having savoured the festivities we walked up to the brightly lit Dargah . As we entered the inner sanctum sanctorum of the Shah Baba Makdoom’s tomb we were engulfed in the serenity and peace . Crowds moved in orderly and disciplined manner offering a silent prayer to the Sufi Saint and asking for his blessings. Once we took the darshan and came out , we were struck by the ethereal beauty of the lighting and flower decked arched gate of the Dargah. Looking up I could see the moon in the dark sky shining so bright and spreading its light of assurance much like the light shining from the Shah Baba Makdoom’s Dargah standing tall and firm  amongst all the chaos in this city of dreams.

We bid farewell to one of the patron saint of this city with a qawwali which is so apt running through my mind…..

Tere darbaar mein dil thaam ke who aata hai …Jisko tu chaahe , hey Nabi tu bulata hai

Tere dar pe sar jhukaane main bhi aaya hoon .. Jiski bigdi haaye Nabi chaahe tu banata hai

Bhar do jholi meri ya Muhammad .. Laut kar main na jaunga khali

Band deedon mein bhar dale aansu.. Sil diye maine dard ko dil mein

Jab talak tu bana de na tu bigdi .. Dar se tere na jaaye sawaali.

Bhar do jholi meri ya Muhammad .. Laut kar main na jaunga khali… Khali