Just Walking Around

Goa … The abode of the Gods   

What do you visualize when I say GOA .. 9 out of 10 will say Beaches , Booze and Babes. The priority and ranking will be different depending upon the person you are but given a choice chances are you will want to enjoy any one or all three.

But believe me there’s more to GOA, than just beaches and the now infamous rave parties. That’s just superficial to attract the tourist and cater to their indulgence. Dig a little deeper and you will find the real GOA. A beautiful scenic place with lots of traditional ethos and spirituality.

Goa has had a very long and tradition of Vedic and Sanskritic learning. Goa has the ancient site of Konkan-Kashi (at Diwar Island) considered by the Puranas holier than Kashi itself. The  institutions of Agrahara, Brahmapuri and Maths as eminent centres of learning which existed for Centuries . These were the three most important institutions consisting of communities of learned Brahmins whose profound scholarship attracted students from far and near. The Agraharas constituted the real universities of medieval India. Where as  Brahmapuris which were the settlement of learned Brahmins in parts of towns and the third agency that played an important role in cultural life was the Math. It was a typical Indian monastery with monks, ascetics and students living within its precincts which also served as a free boarding house.The Math tradition of Goa has survived with Goa having three key Maths of Goud Saraswat Brahmin community - Kavale Math, Gokarn-Partagali Math and Kashi Math. In order to enable these institutions to carry on their work, they were richly endowed by Kings, Chieftains and philanthrophic and wealthy citizens.

Historical records of the 11th century AD describe Govapuri “as beautiful and pleasing city, the abundant happiness of which surpassed the paradise of Indra”. The prosperity continued till the arrival of the Portugese in the 16th century. During the Golden Age, the indigenous architect found expression not only in mansions, houses and temples but varied complexes

like Agraharas, Brahmapuris and Maths”

Among the Brahmin communities of Goa, the Goud Saraswat Brahmins have always played a dominant role in religious, social, cultural and economic role of Goa. According to some sources, the first migration (700 BC) to Goa by Saraswats was directly from the Sarasvati river banks via Kutch and southwards mostly through sea routes. The three main groups who came to Goa were the Bhojas, the Chediyas and the Saraswats and maintained connections with the Kutch, Sindh and Kashmiri Saraswats. The second wave of immigrants settled at Keloshi (Quelessam) and Kushasthal (Cortallim) and were named after those villages as Keloshikars and Kushasthalikars. From here they spread to other villages. The main deities which also came along with them were Mangirish, Mahadeo, Mahalaxmi,

Kamakshi, Mahalsa, Shantadurga, Nagesh, Saptakoteshwar besides many others. Gomantak region is dotted with so many Kuladevata Temples of Saraswats which testifies to this fact

Did you know that there nearly 500 temples in this small state tucked away in each of its villages. Some operating out of old Wada’s or installed in community halls with manglorean tiled roofs. With so many temples in and around Goa is also referred as the Kashi of Western India. Most of the temples are in North Goa in the areas of Ponda, Bandoda , Cortalem , etc.

A case in point is the most famous temple of Lord Shiva the Mangeushi Temple in Priole near Ponda. Shree Manguesh temple was originally located in Kushasthali (Cortalam) and was a popular centre of pilgrimage till the Portugese destroyed it and on the original site of the temple now stands a church. In 1560 AD anticipating the onslaught of thePortugese, the devotees moved Shri Manguesh Shivalinga to a safer place in the Hindu territory of Sonde kingdom across the Zuari river. The Shivalinga was kept in a scenic surroundingson a hillock covered by forest, probably in a small hutment at a place now known as Mangueshi.

In the year 1739 AD, the Peshwas donated the village of Mangueshi to the temple. Mangueshi is still a small hamlet about 1,000 families. Subsequently, a proper temple was built around 1744 AD which was supported by wooden pillars which have been preserved even today. A new temple was built in 1890 AD which was again renovated in the year 1973.

According to Manguesh Mahatmya which forms a part of the SkandaPurana, Devasharma, one of the three later Gauda Saraswat emigrants, found the Linga near the river Agashi at Kushsthali. The discovery is a_ributed to a servant who appears to have seen Dev Sharma’s cow pouring milk from her udder everyday at the same spot and this happened to be a Linga. The word Manguesh is derived from another episode according to w hich Ishwara and Parvati were playing a game and the former lost the game and left Kailasa in a huff and wandered from place to place until he reached Gomant. Parvati went in search of him till she reached Gomant. Ishwara then assumed the form of tiger to frighten Parvati. On seeing the tiger she cried out “Trahi Mam Girish” (Protect me oh lord of the mountain). Thus the word Manguesh is derived from Mangirish. Within the temple complex there are shrines to Dev Sharma, Moolkeshwar who was the caretaker of the cow belonging to Dev Sharma and Shiv Sharma who identified the Shivalinga.The other ‘Parivar’ devata shrines are that of Virabhadra, Kalbhairav, Lakshminar ayana and Santeri. The annual festivals include the birthday of Sri Ram, AkshayaTritiya, Sri Anant Vritotsava, Navaratri (Dussera), Diwali, Mahashivaratri and Magha festival.

This year I was fortunate to witness the awe inspiring Magh Jatra Utsav , beginning on Magh Saptami withVijay Rathutsav and a grand finale on Magh Purnima with the Maha Rathutsav and Samuhik Prarthana.

On the day of poornima or full moon, the main zatra at Mangueshi is celebrated. The coconut breaking ceremony in front of the the chariot is held by the swami, followed by the mahajanas and devotees. This year, the zatra of lord Manguesh commenced on January 24 and concluded on February 2.

Every year the zatra is celebrated with great pomp and gaiety. Irrespective of their religions, a large number people participate in the annual zatras. This communal harmony has been the specialty of the region for the past several centuries. Lord Manguesh is one of such deity, whose serene temple is located at Mangueshi in Ponda, who is worshipped not only across Goa but but all around the globe. In front of the temple is a lake with a music house adjacent to it. The sangodd, a procession of the idol of Lord Manguesh in the lake during the day of Zatra is delightful and pleasing to the eyes.

The annual zatra of Lord Manguesh is held in the Hindu month of magha. A number of religious ceremonies take place during the festival. The procession of the deity on Vijayrath (chariots), Ambari (elephant) Roupyashibikotsav (silver palanquin), Rathosav are held on the occasion. On the day of poornima or full moon, the main zatra is celebrated. The path way leading upto Mangueshi Temple is lined up with shops selling various items like bag , toys , anodized silver trinkets , decorative items made of shells and conches . You have the usual merry –go-round and Giant wheels lit with neon lights sparkling away. As you near the Temple premises there are food stalls selling Garma Garam bhajji’s – Poatato and Kela and off course the Goan famous Mirchi bhajji.Eat them while they are hot and wash it dowm with Kokan Soda or the fizzy Limbu Goti Soda in those unique dark green bottles fitted with a marble for the cap. While walking towards the Temple you are awestruck with the lighting done to the entire Temple Complex. From far it looks as if the stars have descended from the sky. The Deepmala Tower with its lighting symbolizes the  guiding light one yearns for in once life. A light shining so bright it takes away the darkness and with it all the ups & downs in once life. There a huge serpentine que to have the darshan of Lord Mangesha and you move along to enter the Mangueshi Temple. There is a fore court and then  main temple. Inside One can observe the statues of Nandi, the sacred bull and Grampurush, the protector, inside the temple. The devotees request the Grampurush for granting of the prasad, through the medium of a bhat, the temple priest. Once you reach the front you are mesmerized by the flowere bedecked idol of Lord Mangesha. Such beauty and serene image , unkwoningly you feet come to stand still and palms get folded in a namaskar and a thought flashes through your mind  asking  the lord to bestow you and your family with Sukh Samruddhi Arogya and Ayshwarya  (Happiness, Abundance , Health &  Wealth ). You sit for some time inside the temple soaking in the vibrant but peaceful environment. You take the Lords blessing and move out of the Temple . Out side are again stalls selling local sweets like Khaja , Amba (Mango) vadi , Fanas (Jack fruit ) poli . Some are selling the Amsul ( cut and dried sweet sopur fruit ) used in the Goan Xacuti and fish curries .Theres also the Tirpal and pepper which are masala’s used in Goan curries.

The Maha Rathotsav is slated for 4.30 am early in the morning. This year I was fortunate to be a part of this special ceremony. A special thanks to Kamat Guruji my friend , philosophe and guide who offer me to stay at his place which stones throw away from the Mangueshi Temple. I am also thankful to Datta who accompanied me to the Temple at 5 am that early morning.

The Sun had still not risen in the sky and in the pitch dark sky you could make out the shining Temple from the approach road that we took. The Temple looked as if it was decorated with twinkling stars . In its pristine avatar the temple looked as if it was washed with milk , appearing bright white. In the Temple complex you could see nearly 5000 people queuing up for a the traditional coconut breaking ceremony.

The coconut breaking ceremony in front of the the chariot is held by the swami, followed by the mahajanas and devotees. Nearly  5000 – 6000 coconut are broken on the metal plate fixed to the Rath (Chariot) by the devotees lined up from 5am in the morning. It is said if the coconut breaks into 2 in the first throw , your wishes will be fulfilled . Mine did , hoping Lord Mangesha blessing will make my wishes come true . The ceremony is observed by GSB ladies decked up in silk saree’s and gold jewelery and other traditional fineries from the balconies of the Staying quarters / dharmashala built around the Temple. You can observe elegant old ladies seated at the balconies showering the rath with fresh flowers . Once the coconut breaking ceremony is over the heavy chariot weighing nearly a Ton and decorated with patkas and flags of red green and saffron and on which is installed the murti of Lord Mangesha is ready to be pulled by the assembled people. Yes the chariot is pulled with all the might by the devotees and taken around in a circular pradakshina around the Temple. Shouts of Parvati Pate Har Har Mahadev pierces the night sky and environment if filled with buzzing energy. The rath is accompanied by a brass band belting out fine bhakti music. 

The Rath is made to halt an 4 specificed spots where a brief puja is done and the chariot is pulled again. After two such rounds the Lord’s murthi is taken down palced in a Silver Palkhi and taken inside the Sanctum Santorum of the Temple .Where it is installed and a Samuhik Prarthana (Common Prayer) is made by the priest’s asking Lord Mangesha to bestow all those attending the ceremony and their families ,with his blessing. A  Prasad of fresh cut fruit in a dried leaf dron is distributed to all in the temple complex .

By the time I came out of the temple the sun had just risen in the sky making it a tinge of crimson. It was  as if Lord himself had used some brush strokes across the sky making the occasion even more divine.