Just Walking Around

Punjabi Dhaba in the Midst of Mumbai….

A small news appeared on the inside page of the Times of India today. Kulwant Singh Kohli the owner of Pritam Da Dhaba and creator of the World famous “Butter Chicken” passed away at a ripe old age of 85.A legend in his turf of culinary and hospitality industry. A soft spoken person with a golden heart a person who introduced Mumbai to the authentic taste of traditional Punjabi cuisine.

It all began in 1942 when a Rawalpindi entrepreneur Prahlad Singh Kohli - the father of Kulwant - came to the erstwhile Bombay to start a small Punjabi eatery, 'Pritam Hotel' in Kalbadevi, but it failed miserably and he was left virtually penniless. He then decided to move to the ‘labor class’ populated Dadar with the hope of cashing in on the upcoming movie studios in And his gamble paid off. Kohli was known to go out of his way towards the struggling actors who patronized his joint. A meal then would cost Rs 19 and Rs 38 for two. With many studios in south Mumbai and the still infantile suburbs cradling the success of the film industry, the Pritam Hotel also thrived, with the menu lovingly supervised by his wife, Harkaur.

In 1953, the young Kulwant, then barely 11, reluctantly joined his father in the business in Mumbai. His  pleasing manners and helpful nature he soon became popular with the film industry folks and even leading politicians of the era.Most of the leading star of Bollywood at that time were from Lahore from erst while Punjab in Pakistan and would crave their original north Indian cuisine in alien Mumbai. They now had a place in the heart of the city where they  but could relish and relive the flavors of Punjab.

Actors like Dilip Kumar, Manoj Kumar, Sanjeev Kumar, Raj Kapoor, Raaj Kumar, Sunil Dutt, Dharmendra Deol, Rajendra Kumar, Dev Anand, Jagjit Singh, Anand Bakshi, Shanker-Jaikishen, Chetan Anand, Kamal Amrohi, BR Chopra, Yash Chopra and many more became friends with Kulwant Kohli bonding over food and drinks.

As a sharp businessman and restaurateur the Kohli's expanded the place by buying out neighbourhood properties to offer a restaurant, a typical Punjabi-style 'dhaba', fine-dining, a full-fledged four-star residential Hotel MidTown Pritam, etc.

As the hotel's name spread far and wide,it was now patronized by all foodies who had a taste for asli Punjabi cuisine. Bolloywood’s original Showman Raj Kapoor came to inaugurate the renovated and centrally-air conditioned Pritam Hotel in 1975, kicking off the trend of fully air conditioned eateries which picked up in a big way and is common today.

It was the only restaurant till then which didn't have a formal menu, but served all time popular mouthwatering Punjabi cuisines like butter chicken, chicken masala, tandoori chicken, mutton kheema, fish fry, parathas, biryanis, etc. Till date these are the best dishes when you land a seat during the weekend rush. Kohli prided himself on introducing authentic 'butter chicken' to the the Mumbaikar's in the 1950-1960's, which was a raging hit and now a 'must-item' on all city restaurant menus.

Around 1985, his sons introduced the 'dhaba' concept to the city with an open-air extension to the existing restaurant, 'khatiyas', charpoys, an open kitchen and friendly service, which went down well with the Mumbaikar’s

Kohli also ventured into the film industry with Sangeeta Films Corporation, which acquired the world distribution rig for the films “Paakeeza" and “The Burning Train. Story has it that even Sunil Dutt and Dharmendra when they were stragglers couldn’t afford a decent meal would land up at Pritam’s and have their fill . Their relationship with Kulwant was such that , they would eat to their hearts content and pay when they were flush with funds.

The legacy is being taken forward by Kulwant Kohli’s grandson Abhayraj Kohli . The junior Kohli, who has a Masters in Hospitality Management and is the brain behind the parent company's launches, Grandmama's Café (Dadar and Lower Parel) and MRP (My Regular Place). 

By end of the year in 2016, Stashes of photos frames of senior Kohli bonding with yesteryear icons like Sanjeev Kumar, Manoj Kumar and Rajendra Kumar graced the walls of Pritam Restaurant & Bar . The idea was to re-brand the company and allow guests to walk down memory lane Pritam Da Dhaba, the dhaba section will also see changes. They will offer dishes inspired from the famous Highway Dhabas across India and also , give them credit. Instead of eating dhaba food elsewhere , the patrons will experience the culture right there . The walls now tell a new story but the food won't. It will always be wholesome North Indian Hardcore Punjabi food. No diet food but a meal for the masses with familiar smell taste and flovors.  

While no one in the clan has been christened as Pritam, Kulwant Kohli’s father  wanted a name that meant beloved in as many Indian languages as possible and hence, chose “Pritam”.

An apt name for a truly Punjabi restaurant. A true tribute to this restaurateur would be to order a Butter Chicken and Crisply done Tandori Roti , gorge on the lip smacking dish ,clean out the plate and burp loudly to your hearts content as a salute to Kulwant Kohli the Butter Chicken Man..

Bole Sau Nihaal Sat Sri Akal …Wahe Guru Da Khalsa Wahe Guru Di Fateh….